Horse power

>> Le Centaure's food may be off track, but the betting isn't

by SARAH MUSGRAVE

With 15-foot windows overlooking the Hippodrome racetrack, an expanse of white tablecloths and gracious waiters in tuxedo vests, Le Centaure is the kind of "classy" establishment designed to make the little guy feel like a big shot. While the unwashed masses scarf down Molson Ex and hot dogs just a few floors below, high-rollers like yourself can take in a panoramic view of the Montreal skyline and bet on the horses without waiting in line.

But the best part is that as you peruse the complimentary race program and check out the action on your private table-top TV screen, no one knows that you're wagering a mere $2 on Mort the Sport or Road Rider. All this takes place in a retro-cool atmosphere: the crazy-coloured Club House building that holds the restaurant was designed in the late '50s and the race track, formerly known as Blue Bonnets, has existed at its present location since 1907.

The only downside is that Le Centaure's menu pulls up a little lame.

For starters, we opted for that classic Vegas number, the shrimp cocktail. Served in a goblet of crushed ice, the five jumbo shrimp and tangy horseradish dipping sauce did not disappoint, although it was pricey at $9.75. We mitigated the expense by pocketing a few items from the basket of bread sticks, warm rolls and melba toast.

Next up was the salad course. My betting companion likened his basic greens with creamy dressing to first-class food on an airplane. The Caesar, on the other hand, was fresh and crispy, with big chunky croutons and just the right amount of homemade dressing.

The table d'hote ($19.75), offered two main course choices. I was relieved that they'd run out of the intriguing-sounding tenderloin of venison in a sauce of juniper berries, gin and cream, because gamey meat was too reminiscent of the animals circling the track below us. Instead, I ordered the poached grey sole fillets. Presented on a bed of mildly flavoured spinach leaves, the dish consisted of a large, soggy piece of fish glazed with Mornay sauce. Even the lemon wedge could not perk it up, nor could the minute bowl of rice and broiled tomato au gratin that accompanied it.

It's also extremely difficult to concentrate on the horsetrack while you're trying to avoid swallowing a fish bone. There are enough distractions already, from the trumpet sounding the start of a new race to other customers knocking on the wooden window sill for luck.

A better bet was the beef kebab ($15.95), a brochette containing six large chunks of meat, grilled pepper, onion and zucchini, served with a tasty peppercorn dipping sauce. It was accompanied by a perfectly cooked cauliflower and egg casserole.

Next time I'd avoid the longshots and stick with favourites like roasted chicken, prime rib of beef or the surf and turf platter.

The dessert of crême caramel adorned with strawberries and pineapple was delicious. However, the putrid coffee poured out of industrial thermoses made me feel like I had just attended some sort of wretched business conference.

The key to enjoying a meal at the racetrack is to admit that you're there for the betting and not for the food. Le Centaure's cuisine is best described as hotel food--unexciting but not unsatisfying. Which is fine, because there is enough excitement on the track below to make the experience worth it. :

Le Centaure

Address: 7440 Décarie (shuttle from Namur metro)

Phone: 739-2741 (reservations recommended)

Hours: race times are Wed, Fri, Sat at 7:30pm; Sun at 1:30pm

Best features: meat dishes, high-roller atmosphere

Alcohol: Yes

Vegetarian-friendly: No

Wheelchair access: Yes

Credit cards: Yes

Price: $20-25/person before drinks, tax & tip

Rating: ** out of ****