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>> Full meals added to latest Java U location in Westmount

by IVY TOLCHINSKY

In the highly competitive coffee shop/bar business, the food is most often just background culinary muzak. But not so with Java U.

Although owner Don Moffard operates this particular location as a "traditional" café by day, he wanted to offer something a bit more sophisticated and substantial on the evening bistro menu. Substantial indeed. How would you like a little rack of lamb with your latté?

When Tipu Hmed, a talented young chef who cut his teeth at the Globe and Les Caprices de Nicholas was hired, they decided on an eclectic menu of about 10 items. The menu changes every 3-4 days, utilizing the freshest products available.

The evening we dropped in, the appetizers included a fresh green bean salad, a carpaccio dish, a seasonal salad and a spicy calamari dish. We chose the green beans and the carpaccio. Both were creatively presented, with colour and texture balanced harmoniously on the plate.

The tender-crisp green beans were piled up like a little bean bonfire. Paired with sections of pink grapefruit and orange, it made an appropriate spring-season dish. Unfortunately, the more intense citrus and grainy mustard dressing overpowered the delicate ginger it was prepared with.

The carpaccio featured razor thin slices of raw filet mignon marinated in olive oil and spices which were fanned around a mound of crunchy fennel slaw and garnished with olives, capers and two giant slices of fresh parmesan cheese. The first reason why I could never become a vegetarian.

The main courses featured a rack of lamb, a salmon dish, filet mignon (cooked!), chicken breast and a requisite pasta dish. Sounded ho- hum at first but our selections demonstrated that this chef was capable of transforming an old standard into something unique and unpredictable.

I chose the chicken breast with smoked chipotle peppers and a mango coulis. Height may be "out" according to a recent poll of chefs, but not at Java U. At first, all we could see was a giant pappadum (Indian-style cracker) teetering about four inches above the plate. Once removed, a slice of grilled chicken breast was revealed atop a layered medley of green and red peppers, an assortment of mushrooms and a base of tender roast potatoes. Although the chicken was a bit dry, it was saved by the smoky chipotle flavour and the tasty vegetables.

The filet mignon, a veritable tower of power, was served much in the same way but with delicate slivers of crispy deep-fried green and white onions nestled inside the pappadum cracker. Reason number two to remain a confirmed carnivore. The filet was like "buttah" and was so well-paired with the red wine shallot sauce that my sister the ketchupaholic passed on her fix for the first time--ever.

We tried the pasta dish to see if it demonstrated the same quality. It did. The penne arrabiata was served with a lively and spicy tomato sauce topped with a generous slice of soft goat's cheese for an unusual, creamier effect. Desserts were numerous and rich. The coffee, of course, was excellent.

All items are à la carte, which can make for a pricey meal but owner Moffard says a reasonably priced table d'hote is on the way. Granted, some adjustments still need to be made but the basics are there. Java U has started off with a good edge. Now they simply need to sharpen it.

Java U

Address: 4919 Sherbrooke W.

Phone: 482-7077

Hours: café: Mon-Sun 7am-6pm, bistro: Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight or 1am

Best features: top quality products and fresh flavours, creative presentation, terrasse open when weather permits

Alcohol: Yes

Fish and seafood: yes

Vegetarian-friendly: somewhat

Wheelchair access: Yes

Credit cards: Yes

Price: $20-30 per person, including tax and tip

Rating: *** out of ****