Cambodian casual

>> Lotus Puissant sprouts on Parc Avenue, but will it flourish?

by SPANKY HOROWITZ

We all love Chinatown, but every now and then it's a good idea to venture outside of those concrete gates that Mayor Bourque erected to hamper--sorry, did I say "hamper?" I meant to say "help"--Chinatown's growth.

A new Asian seedling has recently sprouted on Parc near Laurier: Lotus Puissant, which translates as "powerful lotus." The restaurant offers a mix of simple, rustic fare from Cambodia and Thailand.

Once inside, I couldn't quite make up my mind between the imperial rolls or spring rolls so, as usual, I ordered both. The imperial rolls ($2) were a pair of slender, crunchy cylinders that, once bit into, revealed a soft, steaming ragout of shredded vegetables and pork smothered in aromatic juices which took me right back to someone else's "old country".

The spring rolls (2 for $3) were sheets of ultra-thin, pure-as-snow white rice paper packed with cabbage, cucumber, bean sprouts, vermicelli noodles, slices of chicken and small but whole shrimp. They didn't look like they would hold together but they did, even with my white boy chopstick dexterity.

The fish sautéed in lemongrass ($9), one of the pricier items on the menu, didn't indicate what type of fish it would be. Our very shy but friendly waiter also had no idea. He asked his mom, who kindly informed us that it would be blackfish, a fairly popular fish in many parts of Asia.

It arrived whole, with its head and tail intact, crisply deep-fried and topped with sautéed slices of tomato, diced onions, slivers of hot green pepper and shards of lemongrass. The spice of the chili peppers and tang of the lemongrass offered a lively contrast to the sweetness of the fish, which fell off the bone quite easily into my trusty chopsticks. Don't try using a fork: you'll only end up picking bones from your mouth.

I also tried the Mi cha popong ($5.50), which translates loosely as crispy noodles sautéed with chicken and vegetables and is a staple in any Chinese or Asian eatery. It was bland but well worth the price and easily seasoned to taste with some hoisin sauce, hot red pepper paste and Sriracha hot chili sauce, which are on every table.

For dessert, we tried the fried banana ($2), three lengthwise slices of battered and fried banana sprinkled with bits of roasted peanuts and smothered in sugar syrup. Mmm mmm good.

I'd heartily recommend any of the fish dishes as well as the many fried offerings and rice-combo dishes, all under $6. The non-fried items are in need of a little more zing, so don't be shy with the sauces and spices that are at your disposal.

As for the soups, I've only sampled the Tonkinoise, which was far too bland, but I'm perfectly willing to try the others.

I wouldn't write off Lotus Puissant, which is on a strip of real estate desperately in need of a new lease on life. It offers authentic "down-home" Cambodian food with a terrasse ideal for contemplating a balmy afternoon or a humid evening munching on cold spring rolls and sipping beer.

Comments? foodspanky@hotmail.com

Restaurant Lotus Puissant

Address: 5145 Parc (between Fairmount & Laurier)

Phone: 948-9897

Hours: Mon-Wed 11am-10pm; Thu-Sat 11am-11pm; Sun 11am-9pm

Best features: Casual, rustic Cambodian food, terrasse for warm weather

Alcohol: Yes

Vegetarian friendly: not on the menu, >but I'm sure they'll accommodate

Wheelchair access: Yes

Credit cards: Yes

Price: $6-15 per person, including tax and tip

Rating: ** out of ****