Big game

>> Rugby North America jockeys for position but lets the product speak for itself

By ALEXANDRA SPUNT

It started with the bags. I remember back in the day (maybe five years ago) when Rugby North America bags became ubiquitous. I had no idea where they came from, but they carried a rep for being cool (not that I was an authority on such matters).

Since then, a lot has happened for this Montreal-based company: full leather clothing and accessory lines, not to mention branches in New York, Toronto and Vancouver. But one thing has remained the same: due to their subtle approach to promotion, people still don't really know what Rugby's all about. Or why a quasi chi-chi "urban basics" clothing/leather company carries such a name.

Calfskin class

Here's the histoire. Rugby started in Montreal in 1987, beginning with belts and bags, and expanded in '93 to leather clothing. I was told by company spokesperson Marine Godfroy that at first, they had more of a rough, outdoorsy image. That changed in '97, when they started using a more refined kind of leather--Italian calfskin--giving their goods a sleeker, more urban look.

Rugby is about basics: quality, simple design and minimalism. They offer pants, dresses, skirts and tops in leather and nylon (for summer) and cotton (a softer cotton you've never felt) and of course, an array of bags. Those who've been to the store may have noticed the sparse design and the lack of any sign outside. In fact, Rugby does zero traditional promotions or advertising. It's the old, "let the product speak for itself" philosophy and it seems to be working.

In '97, they opened their doors in Soho, New York, and then in Toronto and last year in Vancouver. Each store was done slightly differently, moulded to the city (the Vancouver store is modern with huge windows, the Soho store is in an older space with cast-iron and sculptured ceilings). Godfroy told me that the New York and Toronto markets reacted right away, while Vancouver (admittedly a less fashion-conscious city) will take a little more time for people to catch on.

What's in a name?

The media-shy founder of Rugby (who prefers to remain nameless) called the company Rugby North America because he wanted it to run in the same manner as a sports team (okay, sounds a little hoky). But the idea is that the company functions without titles or any form of hierarchy--each person has a position to play and their own goals to achieve.

The head office in Montreal consists of about 40 employees, most of them female. Godfroy says that the high female quotient was not intentional but coincidental, admitting that women are more drawn to this type of structure than men (it's very a la quilting group). When asked if this ladies-only vibe can get a wee bit intense at times, Godfroy is diplomatic: "I think it fosters an attitude which is perhaps more sensitive."

I must admit that I dug the vibe when I visited the office for the first time close to a year ago. It's all about wide open spaces: no cubicles or offices, lotsa light and good God, they have a coffee bar where they make espressos! No buck for brown water here.

Quality costs

So where's the glitch? Well, it definitely targets a higher financial bracket. But the idea is that it's made to last. "Quality control is very tight because everything is done in-house," says Godfroy, adding that the clothing is "not trend-determined--it's understated and functional. It doesn't overpower a person's image but rather adjusts to the individual personality."

She explains that Rugby only comes out with two collections a year and that as long as there is a demand for a certain cut or style, it will remain (some have been around for over 10 years). She also told me that it's not unusual for clients to bring in their aging bags for repairs rather than purchase new ones--people seem to get very attached.

Godfroy is very excited about the new Spring/Summer collection. She notes a particular knee-length light yellow leather skirt and an array of fun leather camisoles. I'm also informed that the products can be found in different stores all over the map, recently even in Le Bon Marche (Paris' ooh-la-la department store).

As for more stores, they may be setting their sights on another one in New York and eventually California. lll

Rugby North America is located at 3526 St-Laurent