Neva say never

>>Original dishes stand up to the big guns on the St-Laurent strip

by IVY TOLCHINSKY

The owners of Neva have already made some smart marketing moves. The neutral-sounding name Neva (pronounced "neeva"), for example, isn't immediately associated with any particular ethnic group. Then there's the decor: understated with clean and uncluttered lines, the colour scheme predominantly neutral shades of black, white, beige and putty.

It's a perfect background for artistic chef Scott Lizotte to play upon his "canvas," executing genuinely original creations--dishes as appealing to the eye as to the taste buds of even a somewhat jaded resto critic like myself.

And they did have their work cut out for them, because my sole purpose for venturing out in ass-biting cold that evening was to review their restaurant. I felt like Dirty Ivy, hardened resto critic: "Make my frozen fingers worth it."

With a warm greeting at the door and a glance at the menu, I knew it wouldn't take long to thaw out. The simple one-pager offers tummy-warming starters that include roast squash soup, grilled brie and a portobello mushroom with polenta.

The charcoal grill section ($17-25) showcases lamb chops, rib steak, beef tenderloin, salmon, chicken--not child's play, my friends. Lighter appetites can peruse the sauté section ($12-16), which features pastas such as handmade vegetable ravioli with creamy basil pesto and noodle stir-frys. A fairly reasonable table d'hote (about $25) is also available.

I don't know about you, but this cold weather has given me a bear-like appetite. And although it's doubtful that your average grizzly bear appreciates the earthy flavour of portobello mushrooms, he would certainly applaud the size of this particular dish. Any larger, and it could be flipped over and used as a life raft. Marinated in olive oil, herbs, garlic and a hint of balsamic vinegar, then lightly grilled, this meaty delight is draped over black forest ham and thick slices of chick pea polenta. A meal in itself and a truly memorable dish!

On the lighter side, the cold spring rolls--filled with shrimp, mint, wasabi and roast garlic aioli, playfully garnished with cellophane noodles and black sesame seeds--were a refreshing surprise.

The service was polished and professional if a bit theatrical at times. The waiter even made a point of unwrapping a basket of grilled bread as if he were about to reveal the crown jewels.

For my main course, I chose Neva's superbly hearty lamb chop selection. The cumin-rubbed chops were grilled to tender pink perfection, topped with a fruity mint salsa and garnished with a few homemade potato chips. A lovely mound of luscious mashed potatoes lay comfortably hidden behind a giant piece of Swiss chard and roasted pepper just waiting to be discovered.

The pork tenderloin from the table d'hote--only slightly overdone in parts--was paired with fresh, sweet Japanese plums in a modified beurre blanc of red wine and ginger.

The handmade ravioli were plump with a purée of vegetables, and generously coated with a light tomato sauce and strategically placed blobs of basil pesto.

Our meal was crowned with Neva's crème brulée: an over-sized portion of light and creamy custard covered in a deliciously edible sheet of crystallized sugar. It was elegantly garnished with Japanese pomegranates (no seeds) and thin slices of rombutan--a fruit similar to a lychee.

Neva, in their own special way, had accomplished their mission. With the last sip of hot coffee and last spoonful of cool custard still warming our senses, we were ready to return to the frozen elements. Those aging prima donnas up the street should take notice of this new kid on the block.

Neva Kitchen Grill

Address: 3467 St-Laurent

Phone: 286-2422

Hours: Daily, 11am-3pm; 5:30pm-1am

Best features: Creative use of fresh produce, comfy atmosphere, great service

Alcohol: Yes

Fish and seafood: YES

Vegetarian friendly: Yes

Wheelchair access: Street level

Credit cards: All major

Price: $35/person including tax and tip

Rating: *** 1/2 out of ****