Steak and fries

>> L'Entrecôte Saint-Jean serves one thing only, with style

by SPANKY HOROWITZ

It's true, this downtown restaurant has only one thing on the menu: steak with fries. Actually, there are two choices: steak and fries (and salad) for $13, or the table d'hôte, which gets you soup, salad and dessert with your steak and fries for $17.

I found this well-hidden resto pretty easily, even though white-lace curtains elegantly obstruct the view inside. The joint was packed with suit-clad businessmen talking first-class capitalism, so I pulled out my copy of Quotations From Chairman Mao to try to fit in. I glanced at the menu and sure enough, the "entrecôte" was the only meal gracing the menu. If you want to be particular, you could order the soup, salad or dessert separately (a questionable vegetarian attempt), or consider the separate drink menu, but when it boils down to the unique "Saint-Jean" sauce, there really is only one thing to eat: steak.

I opted for the table d'hôte, so I can safely say I've eaten everything on the menu, which is something I love to say.

The restaurant is long and thin, but two-storey ceilings and some colossal mirrors make it seem very spacious. An island in the middle of the dining room serves as a prep-station/service area for the waitresses, who are very attentive and courteous.

I was enjoying my soup, a thick and creamy green-pea potage, while eavesdropping on the conversations around me. I now know that the term "tax shelter" is an acceptable French expression, as in "C'est un bon tax shelter." I was about to interrupt the conversation with a socialist thought from Mao Tse-Tung, but lucky for them my walnut salad arrived.

The salad was simple and elegant--fresh Boston lettuce and walnuts doused in a balsamic vinegar and walnut oil vinaigrette. The lettuce was not cold, at first an unwelcome surprise, but a few bites later I realized that the subtle flavours of the walnuts and the vinaigrette really cut through it at room temperature.

My only complaint so far was the bread, which looked like slices of baguette, but tasted a little rubbery and stale. I had noticed a similar complaint that Downtowner resto-critic Milo (remember him?) had made in 1991. This statement, almost a decade earlier, led me to believe that maybe this was not a regular baguette, and was possibly supposed to be a little tough.

Then my steak arrived. It was a boneless sirloin cut, cooked to perfection (medium-rare) and as tender as great quality meat should be. It was partnered with french fries that were brilliantly cooked: lightly deep-fried, but not greasy, a balance that's not so easy to achieve. Usually fries are fried (and fried and refried) until dark-brown at the edges, but these were evenly coloured throughout, and not oily at all. They also required no salt, so I'd guess that they were salted before being cooked.

The "unique to North America" Saint-Jean sauce was complex in flavour, yet light in texture. I thought it was pleasant, but not extraordinary. A few cheese curds and I would have had a killer poutine sitting in front of me, but I guess this place was too classy for that.

I was almost full, but seriously anticipating my dessert. The profiteroles were brilliant--fresh rounds of pastry filled with vanilla ice cream, topped with hot chocolate sauce and sprinkled with toasted almond slivers. Coffee should have been included in the table d'hôte, but cost me $1.25 extra.

If you're not vegetarian, you appreciate attentive service and you don't want to deal with decisions, try out L'Entrecôte Saint-Jean. You won't regret it. :

Comments? foodspanky@hotmail.com

L'Entrecôte Saint-Jean

Address: 2022 Peel

Phone: 281-6492

Hours: 11:30am-11pm, (except Sat, 5pm-11pm)

Best features: Great steak and fries, stylish atmosphere, superb service

Alcohol: Yes

Vegetarian friendly: No

Credit cards: Yes

Wheelchair access: Yes

Price: $13-17 before drinks, taxes & tips

Rating: *** out of ****