Borderless is more

>> Babaloo's brings innovative tastes to the West Island

by IVY TOLCHINSKY

WWhat does a luscious bite of bruschetta have in common with Ethel Merman belting out, "There's no business like show business"? Give up? Believe it or not, both can be simultaneously experienced at Babaloo's, the latest--and probably the most original--eatery to hit the West Island. In fact, painstaking work and attention has gone into creating music to set the mood and enhance the flavour of your visit.

The man responsible for breaking borders in the kitchen is chef Massimo d'Ascanio, who I'm sure as a child never stayed in the lines of his colouring book. Cutting his teeth at Coco Pazzo in Mont Tremblant, this young chef has designed an eclectic menu, bending and breaking rules to suit his every whim.

The "graze and share" section of the menu ($3-8), inspired by the Spanish tapas bars, is a definite focal point. Dishes range from fried calamari and dumplings in peanut sauce (hot!) to grilled asparagus, sizzling shrimp and internationally flavoured pizzas. Four of us got together one lunch time for a giant grazefest. Kudos go to the sizzling shrimp spiced up with jalepeno peppers in a tangy white wine sauce, as well as to the grilled asparagus wrapped in prosciutto. The sesame chicken and fried calamari served with a sassy curry mayonnaise also deserve a special mention. I found the coconut shrimp and veggie tempura heavy on the batter, but all Massimo's homemade chutneys and salsas are delightful. Citrus buffs will adore the zesty house dressing with lemon-infused olive oil.

But sometimes grazing is not quite enough for grown-ups, so I ventured back one evening recently for a complete dinner--and a complete change of atmosphere. The bar was buzzing. Waiters flitted around as tables were filling up. The searing sounds of Santana and Stevie Ray Vaughn had replaced the Broadway vocal chords of Judy Garland and Ethel Merman.

And, of course, the dinner menu ($9-18) is a buffet of international taste sensations: pasta with spicy sausage, Singapore and Thai noodles, shrimp and scallops "tropicale," veal "braciole" stuffed with pancetta, mushrooms and cheese, and even a rib steak with rosemary potatoes. Although no official dinner table d'hote is available, there is a chef's daily suggestion.

We opened with Babaloo's terrific twist on bruschetta, a thick slice of toasted, homemade whole wheat bread with sun-dried tomatoes, generously topped with freshly chopped tomatoes, basil, garlic and a touch of olive oil.

It was difficult to choose a main dish, but I settled on the shrimp and scallops "tropicale," which was served on a bed of grilled vegetables with an exotic couscous flavoured with cinnamon. I have never seen larger shrimp and scallops in my life. The crunchy pepper-coated scallops were especially tender and the heat was diffused by a refreshing pineapple salsa.

Another surprise was the giant ravioli, pillow-like pasta stuffed with a medley of grilled vegetables, bathed in a luxuriously creamy gorgonzola sauce. This dish could make even the most devout dieter swerve directly into the path of sin.

The pasta with spicy sausage tossed with a basil tomato sauce had the right idea, but was somewhat overpowered by the heat of tabasco.

Desserts are numerous, and specialties include fruity cheesecakes and a souped-up tiramisu with peaches. However, coffee was enough for us that evening.

Babaloo's is not a suburban branch of some popular downtown establishment. It is a feisty little restaurant striking out in its own direction.

Babaloo's

Address: 1864C Sources

Phone: 695-6252

Hours: Mon-Wed 11am-midnight; Thurs-Fri 11am-2am; Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 5pm-midnight

Best features: Great music and atmosphere, diverse and intense flavours

Alcohol: Yes

Fish & Seafood: Yes

Vegetarian friendly: Yes

Credit cards: Yes

Wheelchair access: Street level

Price $15-22/person, with tax and tip

Rating: *** out of ****