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Rediscovering Las Americas >> Colombian cuisine steps up in the world
by SPANKY HOROWITZ Remember Las Americas? They were on the Main, and they served great traditional Colombian food. Well, thanks to you, they've closed. Actually, I'm not scolding you for not eating there, I'm congratulating you on helping a small, privately owned business to prosper and grow. Las Americas has moved to bigger and better digs on Clark, at the corner of St-Zotique. Owner/cook Fernando, who used to be in the costume jewelry business until the recession closed him down, was happy to make the shift to restaurateur and was even happier to move to his new location. The kitchen is small, but that's okay because Fernando does all the cooking himself, aided only by one waitress/cashier and one helper behind the scenes. After eating there for three days in a row, Fernando caught on to me and invited me into the kitchen. As he answered my questions, he was moving at a furious pace to cook meals for about 15 people. He was frying two types of plantains, slicing avocados, frying fish, sautéing shredded beef and top sirloin, and carrying out a myriad of tasks I couldn't begin to describe. Dishes were flying in and out, beers were being opened and Colombian music was playing in the background, as several families were enjoying their late Sunday lunch. I ordered from the table d'hôte, which seemed to be the best deal, with a five-course meal going for $9 to $15. I chose the paella for $13.50, since this rice-based dish is usually the benchmark for Latin-flavoured cuisine. My first course was arepa with avocado. An arepa is a Columbian corn cake, made by boiling rock-hard white corn kernels until they're soft and mushy, shaping them into cakes about six inches in diameter and then frying or baking them until they are not quite hard and crunchy but not quite soft and mushy either. It was served with a quarter avocado, which I mashed with my fork and then spread onto the arepa, topping it with some homemade chili sauce. Next up I chose the Colombian fish soup. The clear and not-too-fishy (a good thing in my book) broth was speckled with herbs and full of hearty chunks of fish and root vegetables. I was really enjoying it until I noticed a lemon wedge hiding under the bowl, which, when squeezed in, completely changed the soup from good to great (and tangy too). A lettuce and beet salad followed my soup, topped with plenty of rich and creamy dressing. Then the paella arrived. The colour of this rice-based dish was an attractive bright yellow, and it was chock-full of pieces of chicken, fish, calamari, onions and other vegetables. The plate was topped by two large, fresh shrimp--a number many would have balked at--but with the other choice being many frozen shrimp, I'll take quality over quantity any time. The bowl of chili sauce from my arepa was still on the table, and I used it to spice up my paella until it was perfect for my palate. After hungrily devouring the arepa, the soup, the salad and my paella, I had just enough room for dessert: a piece of coconut flan and a cup of coffee--Colombian, of course. I returned several times, trying various lunch specials, including the steak and onions and the arepa with shredded beef and avocado, which was a perfect snack, as would have been the empanadas, if they weren't sold out. I guess I'll have to go back for the empanadas, and so should you.
Las Americas Address: 6700 Clark (corner St-Zotique) Phone: 274-7303 Hours: closed Mondays, Tues & Wed 12-9pm; Thurs-Sat 12-10pm; Sun 12-8pm Vegetarian friendly: Yes Alcohol: Full license with imported beers
Best features: Spacious seating, authentic menu and affordable prices Rating: *** out of **** |