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Seafood, eat food >> Le Canard swims with the fishes by IVY TOLCHINSKY "Viaduct, vhy not a chicken?" Remember this famous line from the classic Marx Brothers movie Night at the Opera? Being a huge fan of the Marx brothers, I imagined Chico looking quizzically at Le Canard's menu and asking, "Vhy a duck? Vhy not a lobster?" That's because, of the restaurant's offerings, one poor little duck à l'orange is overpowered by an army of fish and seafood dishes. Not that I'm complaining, because I admit I'm a shellfish person. It's just that, for some, the name Le Canard could be a red herring. Herring, duck, lobster. Confused are you? I will be only too happy to set the record straight. This quaint little "canard" on St-Laurent has been quietly serving Spanish and Portuguese fish and seafood specialties for eight years now--and in restaurant years that's a long time. Obviously, there is nothing fishy about their reputation. It's easy to see why. Firstly, one doesn't have to order à la carte to get a variety of house specialties. The dinner table d'hôte ($11.50-17.50) offers a grilled seafood platter; seafood zarzuela (Portuguese bouillabaisse); seafood paella; the traditional Portuguese pork alentejana (with clams); grilled squid; and the duck à l'orange. If you do order à la carte, don't miss the grilled sardines and garlic shrimp. It's also worth noting that there is a terrifically affordable (though a little less varied) lunchtime table d'hôte for $7.50. For the price of a decent club sandwich you can get a real meal deal. Upon entering, we were greeted warmly. And since the temperature in the restaurant was even warmer, we chose to sit outside on the back terrasse. The outdoor space is cozy, but those neon lightboxes have got to go. A good coat of paint, a couple hanging lanterns and some candles on the table wouldn't hurt, either. Luckily, the menu was far more appealing. First up was the fried squid "for the table." It was a generous portion; the crispy crunchy coating compensating for the somewhat rubbery texture. Both my guests had the house salad to start--an adequate plate of fresh greens tossed with a lively vinaigrette. I opted for the vegetable soup because it's against my religion for three people to order the same dish in a restaurant. It was a mild and velvety broth full of carrots, celery, spinach, onions and cabbage. Service was leisurely, as Alexandre Herculano, co-owner with chef Silvino Paulo, was the only person waiting tables that evening. So we waited patiently for our main courses, basking in the eerie neon glow that made us all look about as sexy as a pair of flannel pajamas. The dishes were, fortunately, worth the wait. My seafood paella--a half-lobster surrounded by plenty of mussels, shrimp, scallops and squid, baked into a cozy bed of spicy, creamy saffron rice--was served steaming hot. I had no trouble getting help finishing this hearty dish. My friend's quail--marinated in white wine, garlic, spices and red pepper sauce and lightly grilled--packed an unexpected but pleasant punch. They were well-paired with golden-crisp homemade french fries. My daughter's first choice was the grilled halibut, but it seems the chef went to make a phone call while cooking it, because she was served an overdone, unrecognizable piece of fish. Alexandre replaced it immediately with the pan-fried filet of sole (they ran out of halibut), a tender dish with hints of white wine, lemon juice and garlic. Desserts aren't extravagant here either, but that's just fine. Le Canard continues to be popular because it serves unpretentious and flavourful Spanish and Portuguese homestyle cuisine at reasonable prices.
Le Canard Address: 4631 St-Laurent Phone: 284-6009 Hours: 11am-midnight, 7 days a week Best feature: Fish and seafood at reasonable prices Alcohol: Yes Vegetarian friendly: Yes, but not for vegans Credit cards: Yes, but no interac Price: $23/person, including tax and tip Rating: **1/2 out of **** |