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Groovin' on Peruvian >> Pucapuca is a lesson in traditional cooking
by IVY TOLCHINSKY When I opened the Pucapuca menu, I realized it was prefaced with three pages of text--not merely notes, but full paragraphs describing Peruvian cuisine, the meaning of pucapuca and information about the owner, Ciro Wong. Now, interesting reading material could be useful if you're alone or out on a date with a crashing bore. But I don't think Ciro had the lonely or the desperate in mind when he wrote these pages. He simply wanted to share his rich Peruvian culture with his customers and enhance their eating experience. For example, pucapuca is not an ancient word for "no air conditioning" (even fans were of little use that steamy evening), but is the Inca word for red-red. Ciro even offers another explanation, a story of the last Stone Age Man in America trying to show the White Man how to make a proper soup. Their conversation went something like this: "Now that's perfect cooking," declared Stone Age Man. Unfortunately the White Man, already suffering from communication difficulties, heard pucapuca. Okay, it's a stretch, but it does embody the essence of Ciro's philosophy: giving food the respect and attention it deserves. Naturally, the Pucapuca menu is filled with soups, salads, meat and seafood dishes that ascribe to this belief. Our first treat was a tomatoes rellenos appetizer, a ripe, firm tomato stuffed with a scoop of carrots, peas and beans in a chili-spiked mayonnaise. The four jumbo shrimp hooked over the edge were the perfect compliment to this creamy mélange. The lively Pucapuca salad is for anyone who needs their fruit-and-vegetable fix in a hurry. This healthy cornucopia of sliced fresh apple, pear, orange, radishes, sprouts, tomatoes, cukes, carrots and black olives tossed with a tangy vinaigrette will certainly do the trick. There is also the very special chupa de camarones on the menu. Practically considered the national soup of Peru, this meal-in-itself is a luscious chowder of shrimp, potato, corn and poached egg. Due to the heat, I passed on it. But with cooler temps sure to come, this is a must-try. The main dishes hold a variety of interesting choices: several types of fish, grilled shrimp and sausage, Peruvian veal jambalaya and rabbit in peanut sauce. The table d'hôte probably offers the best deal, with soup or salad, dessert and tea or coffee included for $12.50 including tax. A real bargain. Since I never cook rabbit at home, I opted to go the à la carte route. The meat was tender, if a little over-cooked, and served with rice, smothered in a sublime, spicy (not sweet) peanut sauce. The rest of the plate was overflowing with crisp roasted potatoes, corn, carrots, a zesty bean salad and a little more house salad. The ever-popular Pucapuca shrimp brochette manages to be outstanding, even in a town where brochetteries nearly outnumber dépanneurs. Imagine a dozen or more decent-sized shrimp, seasoned with garlic, cumin, coriander and annato (a tropical spice), and grilled to tender perfection. Seafood lovers will be in heaven. Our only disappointment was that several items, including the potatoes in a spicy cheese sauce, were not available. It seems that Ciro, who was absent that evening, likes to prepare these himself. By the way, contrary to popular belief, potatoes don't come from Ireland, nor do tomatoes hail from Italy. Both apparently originated in Peru. But you'll need Ciro to fill you in on that story. One more good reason to make sure he's there when you go. Comments welcome: ivy@total.net
Pucapuca Address: 5400 St-Laurent Phone: 272-8029 Hours: Tues-Fri, noon2:30pm; TuesSat, 5:3011:30pm; closed Sun & Mon Best features: Shrimp dishes, generous portions, lots of fruits and veggies Alcohol: Yes Fish & seafood: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes Price: $23/ person with tax and tip Rating: *** out of **** |