Chez nous ou
chez vous?

L’Emporte-Pièce is your one-stop
shop for French cuisine on the go

by MATHILDE RABBAT

“Chez nous ou chez vous?” could be a pick-up line in some swingers’ circles. It takes on a different connotation as the motto for cleverly named bistro L’Emporte-Pièce, a recent addition to the growing prêt-à-manger scene in the city. The eatery—the brainchild of those who brought you Les Infidèles, O’Thym, Les Héritiers and Monsieur B—promotes French cuisine, local produce and québécois culture.

In an effort to adhere to one of the three Rs (recycling, duh), old STM bus seats were converted into a quartet of sturdy indoor chairs and recycled wood has been transformed into a rustic, yet fashionable, mural.

A slim elevated terrasse maximizes space by accommodating double the diners, as the tiny eatery only fits a maximum of eight guests.

Luckily, you can also take home your meals. The mostly francophone soundtrack, especially created for the space, highlights talent from our belle province.

The offerings vary according to the season and the produce available. According to the eatery’s manifesto, what doesn’t change is the use of local ingredients in dishes. A magnetic menu board features grilled cheese selections, a handful of plats du jour, a soup, and one or more separate salad side-dishes.

The priciest item from the mains on my visit included a partly-skinned, plump stuffed chicken thigh ($16). No complaints regarding the tender meat, or its chorizo and sweet puréed fig stuffing. However, some of the meat would have benefited from a wee bit more time on the cooker, as its colour and texture left a little something to be desired. That having been said, cheesy types, like myself, will not fail to appreciate the thick, yet smooth dipping sauce, spiked with a mild blue cheese.

The cook is no doubt aware that some foodies prefer more or less sauce slathered on their dishes, so a generous amount of the hot dip accompanied the poultry in a separate cup. Also delicious was the creamy avocado, artichoke, palm heart and green apple salad.

If the term grilled cheese weren’t so cute, it would be a travesty to apply it to rye bread. Still, I had one on rye, fried like French toast and filled with a nice slice of flavourful appenzeller and warm shreds of pork shoulder. To quote my former Swiss professor, “‘Cheese’ is not fromage!” Though the pork grilled cheese hit all of the right notes, the shredded kraut salad that came with it was a miss. A heavy dose of vinegar and mustard rendered the whole thing way too acidic.

The cabbage and mint used to enhance the kraut was completely overpowered by the vinaigrette, as well as a pungent sprinkling of estragon.

L’Emporte-Pièce’s other interpretations of the grilled cheese sandwich feature ermite blue cheese with caramelized onions on raisin bread ($7) and mamirolle with piperade (a Basque specialty) on sunflower bread ($8). I will put those on my to-eat list.

Now a word, or two, about the coffee: on point! The cappuccino fulfils the criteria prized by baristas everywhere. In other words, it’s worth the price. An assortment of European wines can be swigged by the glass, or purchased by the bottle ($19-38), to be enjoyed in house or at your house. If you’re in the market for a cold brew, they’ve got beer too ($4.50).

This little joint is your one-stop shop for a complete refined meal to go, wine and all. The items on offer are as much prêt-à-trinquer, as they are prêt-à-manger.