Tuck in

A market-fresh menu and lively atmosphere
make Tuck Shop a hot commodity

by JOANNA FOX

When I was a kid at summer camp, the tuck shop was pretty much the highlight of my week. Subjected to questionable meals of frozen vegetables combined with unidentifiable meats swimming in gravy, the tuck shop was like a little candy store, offering sweet relief in the form of Skittles, M&Ms, Twizzlers and, obviously, Life Savers. This is the inspiration behind the name of St-Henri’s newest restaurant, Tuck Shop, offering an ever-changing menu chock full of market-fresh, seasonal produce.

Recently opened amidst a serious foodie buzz, Tuck Shop is a pleasure to walk into. With that laidback bistro atmosphere pioneered in Montreal by Joe Beef, the restaurant has a rustic, homey feel accentuated by modern touches. With a great big round wooden table at the front of the room, there’s a long bench along one side and a bar on the opposite wall with tall yellow, wooden chairs. The open kitchen is at the far end, and there’s a great little garden in the back to hang out in and have drinks.

The menu is written on a large chalkboard square on the front wall, but even if you can’t read it from your seat, the staff explains everything in great detail. Our waitress, and one third of Tuck Shop’s ownership, Amelia, was fantastic when we dined, with attentive, consistent service, despite the packed house early on a Tuesday night. The menu choices consisted of about five appetizers and mains that all sounded delicious and varied, highlighting the produce that’s in season right now, with a generous amount of seafood available.

To start off, we decided on a beef tartare ($13), a red snapper ceviche ($13) and an octopus salad ($14). The beef tartare, served with a smear of mushroom aioli and a side of fries, was impressive. Seasoned perfectly, the raw beef was mixed with finely chopped capers, onions and herbs, the creamy aioli adding just a hit of earthy, garlicky taste to blend all the flavours together. The addition of the fries really hit the mark, not only as the perfect accompaniment to beef tartare but because, dipped in the aioli, they were dangerously addictive.

The red snapper ceviche, served with warm, homemade tortilla chips and chunky guacamole, was also a great dish. Ideal for hot weather, ceviche is one of my favourites, and this one did not disappoint. Fresh fish, zesty guacamole and the delicious addition of strips of roasted fennel tossed in made this dish my favourite. The octopus salad, pan seared tentacles on top of an Israeli couscous and diced seasonal vegetable medley, was equally fresh and balanced. My only complaint was that the octopus could have been crispier. Although cooked well, that outer crunch really accentuates the soft texture of the meat.

For mains we tried the hanger steak ($24), the mushroom ravioli ($20) and the seared scallops ($26). The steak was a thin strip of meat, with chimmichuri sauce on top, served with a warm potato salad. The herby, Argentinean style vinaigrette added a summery touch to the steak, but the real showstopper was the potato salad with a horseradish dressing. This fantastic idea is the absolute best complement to a summer steak I’ve had in a very long time.

The mushroom ravioli was perfect. Although rich, the portion was just enough and the big raviolis were filled with a mixture of mascarpone cheese and porcini mushrooms. This simple pasta melted in the mouth and had a smooth, creamy texture complemented by bits of scattered mushrooms on top.

The three seared scallops sat on top of a tomato risotto, which was light and tasted like the summer’s best heirloom tomatoes, but the giant scallops were disappointing. Overly salted, they were browned in butter that had probably burned judging by the bitter taste that overpowered the scallops’ delicate nature.

The food, the service and the atmosphere were all on point. Although the noise level gets a little loud when the place fills up, it had a lively buzz with a nice mixture of people. Since they’ve opened, the place has been jam-packed, and if the meal that I had was any indication of what’s to come, once these guys get their stride, this is going to be a place to watch out for.