Flora and fauna

New Lebanese eatery on the Main,
Omnivore, has all of the bases covered

by MATHILDE RABBAT

To my ninth grade science teacher’s credit, or perhaps even my own, I’ve managed to retain a few tidbits from biology class. Among them is that a cow’s crystalline lens is rubbery in texture and bounces like a super ball. Other bits of knowledge pertain to diet, more specifically to the foodstuffs consumed by herbivores, carnivores and omnivores. So, when housewares boutique À la Maison on the Main was replaced by newbie Omnivore, I knew to expect selections that would appeal to the veggie and non-veggie alike. Biology class was of no assistance, however, in helping me figure out that the fare on offer is Lebanese.

The term omnivore can be understood as “all-devouring,” a befitting name since Mid-East eats incorporate ingredients that any vegetarian would find appealing, as well as a slew of selections from the grill sure to satisfy any lahma (meat) eater.

The standards on offer at this little eatery include over half a dozen vegetarian mezza offerings, featuring fassoulia or loubia b’zeit (beans), hummus and babaghanoush, m’juderah (rice with lentils), moussaka, okra and khodra (grilled veggies).

A salad trio ($4–$6) also figures on the modest menu board, featuring tabouli, fattouch and a salad of the day. Any one of these salads can be combined with the herbivore, omnivore or carnivore platters ($8.50, $9.50 and $12.50 respectively). I always look forward to a good fattouch. With its crunchy romaine leaves, raw onion, garlic, a dash of olive oil and a vinegar drizzle, this interpretation sported all of the right ingredients, save one all-important indispensable element: toasty golden bits of pita, an aberration by some people’s standards.

On the meaty side of things a variety of sandwiches ($5)—perhaps better termed “pita wraps”—incorporating the usual suspects are up for grabs. Chicken for a taouk, marinated mignon, as well as kaftas with names like the Roma (spicy beef with pesto, tomato and aubergine), the Inca (marinated chicken with guacamole) and the Samac (fish in arabic, served with pesto and fennel).

The snugly rolled Beirut, with its chunks of marinated beef, hummus, onion and a welcome dash of sumac didn’t disappoint. For vegetarians there’s the khodra sandwich ($5), fashioned with a veggie paté, tofu and babaghanoush.

All three platters feature different permutations of the above ingredients. The herbivore stars a choice of five veggie mezzas, while the carnivore offers you a choice of three kaftas and a mound of rice. For the omnivore platter, rice and a choice of salad accompany a grilled kafta of your choosing. I’d go with the samac for the meaty part of this platter, which is composed of a juicy Atlantic salmon and tilapia combo, spiked with onion and parsley in true Middle Eastern fashion.

A reasonable portion of m’juderah hit all the right notes flavour wise, though both the lentils and rice struck me as a little too firm, in need of more time in the cooker. Crunchy pickled turnips and an uninteresting hummus also accompanied the dish, destined to be combined with its plate fellows, or the lone pita that had preceded it to the table. The salad of the day was a mix of finely chopped celery, peppers, zucchini and parsley, with a splash of lemon for extra zing—adequate but not amazing.

Since sensible portions allow for a little something with which to cap off the meal, don’t skip the dessert du jour, especially if the sweet is namoura ($4). With a touch of shredded coconut, a flour and wholesome semolina base drizzled in aromatic rose water, and a roasted almond topping, this typical dessert is a real treat.

As with all other selections, the namoura square can be taken away and enjoyed later, but why not savour it in-house, by the wooden window boxes where fresh herbs grow?