Voy a Verdun

Hecho en Mexico is a home-cooked
Mexican deal

by JOANNA FOX

I have to admit that I’m one of the many Montrealers who gets extreme Mexican cravings at least once a week. Like many foodies in this city who seem to constantly search for the unobtainable, I decide to home-remedy. With my taco press popping those babies out faster than you can say olé, my friends are subjected to every type of meat, method, sauce and garnish I can get my hands on. An obsession? More like a serious hobby. That being said, my recent restaurant discovery, Hecho en Mexico (Made in Mexico), proved to be a great, authentic little Mexican spot, smack dab in Verdun.

A family run operation, Hecho is a small, vibrantly decorated space that was packed early on a Tuesday night when we visited. With World Cup jerseys (sorry Mexico), bright yellow walls and a multicultural display of flags strung across the ceiling, the atmosphere was warm and festive. My favourite touch was definitely the Spanish telenovelas playing on the two flat screens, no doubt taken over by soccer in the daytime.

The menu is short and simple (five entrees, six mains), written on a chalkboard at the back and explained by our waitress, who was shy but very sweet.

Most of the dishes are made for sharing so three of each was more than enough for four people. They gave us a basket of tortilla chips for the table, but a little salsa would’ve really helped. Luckily, we ordered some of the guacamole ($6) and wow, was it good. Thick, creamy and scattered with diced tomatoes, red onions and just a splash of lime, the flavour was smooth and rich. We also tried the ceviche ($7), big chunks of white fish with onions, cilantro, tomatoes and lime served on top of a taco with ribbons of lettuce surrounding it. Although slightly salty, the lime zest and the finely diced cilantro made this dish light and refreshing, a perfect contrast to the guacamole. The last entrée we tried was the cactus salad ($7). I’ve had cactus before and loved it, but this salad ­­— slivers of cactus, feta cheese, tomatoes and onions ­­— fell short. The cactus seemed to be preserved and was very salty, kind of like eating a mouthful of pickles. Maybe rinsing the cactus would make this dish more enjoyable, especially with the salty feta.

For mains, we sampled the carnitas ($15), the bistek tacos ($13) and the barbacoa ($15). All served on nice, big terracotta-style dishes, the carnitas were pork, diced in a pile and served on a splay of tacos with slices of lime. Although tender, the pork stood alone, with no sauce to amp it up. Without a splash of Valentina hot sauce and a smear of leftover guacamole, these little tacos would have been pretty sad, even with the juicy bits of pork fat.

The beef tacos, on the other hand, were mixed with cheese and onions, and stole the show. Served in the same manner, this moist and gooey mixture had lightly seasoned chunks of beef with the cheese helping everything hold together inside the soft taco shell. The tacos themselves, not to be forgotten, were delicious. Light, thin and perfectly cooked, they were definitely some of the best I’ve had in this city.

The last dish, barbacoa, was pieces of braised lamb ribs mixed with a five-chili spice mix. Served with tortillas that came in a little round pouch resembling an oven mitt, this dish was on the salty side, but had a rich flavour. Aromatically spicy, it was just enough to really taste the lamb, which melted off the bones. Drinks here are limited to margaritas, sangria, and beer, but for those who crave an authentic taste of Mexico, they do have five flavours of the lightly carbonated sugarcane drink Jarritos.

I really liked Hecho in Mexico. The dishes were more hit than miss, the food was straightforward and simple and the atmosphere was genuine and welcoming. It was kind of like taking a little Mexican vacation, for the metro fare to Verdun.