All hopped up

Cerevisaphiles cheer the return of the
annual Mondial de la bière festival

BOTTOMS UP! Beer fest ’09

by PATRICK LEJTENYI

Just a year short of legal drinking age, Montreal’s Mondial de la bière is bestriding the beer fest circuit like a boozy giant. It’s the biggest international beer festival in North America, and ranks 17th biggest in the world, says its president Jeannine Marois. From a relatively modest beginning in 1994, the festival has fermented into a world-class event, with over 500 exhibitors this year, 240 of which are new.

With its emphasis on microbreweries, the Mondial is a beer connoisseur’s opportunity to sample goods otherwise unavailable to thirsty and curious locals. And this year, as in years past, individual countries will be emphasized. The 2010 edition will honour traditional powerhouse Belgium as well as up and comers Italy and Brazil.

“Italy is emerging as a microbrewing country,” says Marois. “Ten years ago, there were only about 10 microbreweries. Now there are over 200. The brewers take their inspiration from the slow food movement. The beer they make is very regional, with spices and fruits that come from their area. So a beer from Piedmont will taste very different than a beer from another region.” The seven Italian microbreweries will be offering 41 different brands, she says.

For a country better known for its wine and coffee snobbery, Italy’s growing affection for the relatively lower-brow, northern European drink of choice is, at first glance, perhaps puzzling. But the way Marois explains it, the Italian penchant for all things fine and precise dovetails well with making beer on a small scale. “Italians love making things, they love doing research,” she says. “They’ve even developed special glasses that are specific to their beers…. I really think it’s a question of pride. Honouring them at the Mondial would not have been possible 10 years ago.”

She adds that South America is also becoming a locus for microbrewing, and Brazil in particular. “We invited Brazil for the same reason we invited Italy,” she says. “There are many small breweries that are growing. But their influences are more English and German.” Curious, perhaps, given Brazil’s hot, sunny climate, that its microbrewers specialize in heavy, amber and dark beers. But given post-war population migration patterns, perhaps not so strange.

Of course, Belgium’s outsized profile in the beer world belies its tiny size. Their 87-strong contingent will be offering over 80 new beers at Mondial 17.

But there’s more to the beer fest than beer. Food also plays a big role, and a beer and sausage is arguably the greatest drink-meat combo on planet Earth. But this being a definite step above the average suds ’n’ grub gathering, the food is appropriately haute gamme: lobster, scampi and real-ham hamburgers will be offered, all courtesy of Quebec producers. As usual, an outdoor barbecue will be on site, and a variety of cheeses will be on offer. “People want to eat well and drink well,” says Marois.

The festival will also be opening its famed workshops to the hoi polloi. Previously restricted to exhibitors and industry types in town for the schmoozing, the workshops will feature presentations by industry leaders on a variety of topics, from the right combinations of beer and foods (cheeses, fudges and nougats) to marketing, promoting and selling your beers. And for people who want to truly take in the rich and diverse tastes available at the festival, the excellently named Mbeer School of Beerology will be offering a six-hour tasting course—successful participants even get a certificate. Cheers!

THE MONDIAL DE LA BIÈRE RUNS
UNTIL SUNDAY, JUNE 6 AT WINDSOR
STATION (1160 DES-CANADIENS-DEMONTRÉAL,
AKA DE LA GAUCHETIÈRE
W., 11 A.M.–10 P.M., 8 P.M. SUNDAY).
FOR MORE INFO, SEE
FESTIVALMONDIALBIERE.QC.CA.