Modernizing the
classics

Tasso Bar à Mezze wants
to up the Greek ante

by JOANNA FOX

From the higher-end institutions like Milos on Parc Avenue all the way down to NDG’s Villa du Souvlaki, you never have to go too far to get your Greek on. This week, I was on the hunt for something old. An institution really, recommended by a friend whose parents lived in Greece and swore by the authenticity of this food: Psarotaverna du Symposium. This family-owned restaurant was originally on Parc and Fairmount, but had recently moved to St-Denis near Roy. Sadly, when I walked by I learned it had closed down and been replaced by a new Greek restaurant, Tasso Bar à Mezze. I decide to check it out anyway, to see what kind of Greek fare Tasso had to offer in the wake of the beloved Symposium.

Completely renovated, this modern space has a real Mediterranean feel with whitewashed walls, a big airy room, cork-topped tables and a white wood-panelled bar that must have been stolen from my fantasy kitchen scrap book. Our animated waiter explained the concept behind Tasso was “mezze” or the Greek version of tapas. With about two dozen options to choose from ($6–$13) and whole fresh fish to share (market price/availability), the menu focused on what Greeks do best: seafood. Their tasting menu, featuring about eight to 10 dishes ($38) appealed to me: If it wasn’t fresh, they wouldn’t feed it to me, right?

The first two dishes were Malpec oysters with a lemon foam and sea urchin with a lemon mousse, diced shallots and beetroot. The oysters were delicious and the lemon foam floating on top gave it a zesty kick, although nothing can beat a fresh squeeze of lemon. I’d never had sea urchin before and despite this daunting orangey blob, the flavour was creamy, smooth and slightly sweet, pleasant in the mouth with a surprising silky texture. The beetroot and onion added earthiness and crunch, making this dish one I would recommend.

Next were shrimp with pork belly and fennel and seared scallops with sea urchin puree, both unfortunately served lukewarm. The shrimp, undercooked, lacked the crispy outer layer you get from a really hot pan or grill. The pork belly was overcooked and resembled a big dried-up bacon bit. The scallops also lacked that outer crunch but I will give them credit for pairing the scallop with the sea urchin, the latter tasting very much like the scallop’s natural roe.

Following that was fried calamari and grilled octopus. The calamari was lightly battered and soft with a creamy garlic sauce. With a hit of lemon, this dish was above average. The octopus was equally enjoyable, char-grilled with sweet pickled red onions, capers and olive oil. Traditional and simple.

Our last course featured lamb chops, eggplant garlic caviar and ouzo mousse, sliced beetroot with walnuts and a drizzle of feta cream, and a Greek salad. The lamb was a perfect rosy pink and the eggplant was creamy, smoky and delicious. The ouzo mousse was interesting, but unnecessary. I know they were trying to do something “new”, but a shot of ouzo in the pan would have tasted better. The beetroot, served in thin slices, worked great and was a nice contrast to the acid flavours of the Greek salad. And the best part about the Greek salad? The tomatoes tasted like real tomatoes! A rarity at this time of year.

On our waiter’s recommendation, we tried a pear mousse with shortbread biscuits ($6) for dessert and I have to say it was terrible. The mousse seemed to be mixed with some sort of cheese (it tasted like goat’s) and had a grainy, creamy texture. There was a pear puree on the side that reminded me of baby food, and although the shortbread was good, there was no saving this dish.

Tasso is still trying to get their higher-end footing and, mousses and foams aside, the dining experience was warm and friendly. Maybe it’s me, but there’s something about Greek that screams basic and fresh, exactly what makes me return to my Greek dining staples. But a little change never hurt anyone.