Hail Halal

Dera is the newest eatery to serve up
Pakistani, Indian and Bangladeshi in Parc-Ex

by MATHILDE RABBAT

In Kipling’s The Ballad of East and West, “East is East and West is West and never the twain shall meet.” This may still hold true in some parts of the world, but not Parc-Ex, where sugar cane is sold and where it’s not uncommon to see saris, kurtas and turbans worn by many of the locals. That’s the crowd you’re most likely to encounter on a visit to Dera, one of the latest additions to the neighbourhood’s eateries, specializing in Pakistani, Indian and Bangladeshi fare.

Punters eat from plastic plates bearing the name of the place that formerly occupied the spot (Shahnawaz), which lies in contrast with other features like long golden curtains and big, glitzy, crystal chandeliers.

The large space, sporting a series of Islamic-style archways, can clearly accommodate over 100 diners, who, if so desired, could each order a different item from the extensive menu.

There’s a large number of vegetarian and meat dishes, chicken, lamb, beef or fish, all of which is strictly halal (pork is, of course, absent). A series of sinks has also been installed outside the washrooms, to cater to Muslim clientele.

Most dishes don’t come with rice, bread or any other sides, so you’ll have to order those separately from a menu that goes on for pages.

For the undecided, the same booklet provides suggestions as to what an appropriate side dish would be for certain selections. Unfortunately, some of those suggestions, like the mango chutney and mixed pickles, were unavailable on my visit.

A thick and filling mango lassi ($2.49) did not disappoint, nor did a comforting, warm naan ($0.99). Garlic lovers can enjoy that variety of naan as well, positively laden with a heap of cloves ($2.49). Hot from the tandoor and brushed with ghee, as it should be, they’re perfect for slopping up curries of all kinds, like the palak paneer ($5.49). This veggie dish with shredded spinach, unripened cheese and fresh coriander overtones, proved to be lacklustre, with chewy cheese cubes that didn’t seem too fresh.

Carnivores can beef things up with a haleem ($4.99), a hearty stew well known in much of the Islamic world. Wheat meets meat in this porridge of beef, split chickpeas and daal (lentils).

A garam masala makes for a very enjoyable mixture taste-wise, with cardamom taking centre stage and fresh ginger providing a zesty garnish.

The texture was the only drawback, as it was so gelatinous—I suspect due to overcooking—that it was difficult to scoop with a spoon, much like trying to lift jello from a bowl.

My dinner companion succeeded at the task by ingeniously rolling the barely detectable beef around his fork like spaghetti.

The tandoori chops ($10.99), grilled lamb cutlets smeared in a red hot paste packed with chili and seeds, will likely have you licking your chops, clearly outshining our other selections.

I was less enthused, however, with the accompanying, slightly wilted, undressed batch of iceberg lettuce.

The raita ($1.99), usually the perfect palate cooler, wasn’t effective here either, as the tasty yogurt mixture spiked with coriander and mint was too watered down to have the desired effect.

Barring the lassi and the raita, all the warm dishes, including those from the clay oven, arrived lukewarm or cold, which did a lot to affect the overall impression and quality of the dishes.

This could have been the result of absent-minded staff who said they had forgotten to wait on our table after we were seated, and later forgot to bring some of our orders.

It must also be said that things such as un-cleared neighbouring tables, used napkins littering the floor, and dirty glasses and dishes were, admittedly, just as off-putting.