Sandwich salvation

After 11 years, Olive and Gourmando still
serves some of the best lunches in the city

by JOANNA FOX

Let’s face it: Montrealers hate to wait in line. Whether it’s for the bus, to get a drink, to get a flu shot or to eat, we don’t like to do it because we don’t usually have to. There are a few exceptions, places where I’ll queue up knowing it’ll be worth the wait: breakfast at Cosmos, a good coffee at Olimpico, lunch/brunch at Sparrow, Romados for Portuguese chicken, my favourite butcher and Olive and Gourmando. No secret to many people’s lunch spot repertoire, O&G has been making sandwiches, salads, freshly baked goods and coffee for 11 years. With a splash of wine, daily specials including soup and a cheese plate, spicy nuts, homemade granola and jams, these guys really take the quality of a casual lunch to next-level status with a serious gourmet attitude.

O&G is continuously bustling with a sensory overload of smells, tastes, noise and traffic. There is a concise blackboard menu of their staples and a long glass counter showcasing a tempting visual display of their daily dishes. The staff runs the place within the fine balance of systematic efficiency and stress-free friendliness, and although there is often a line, it never takes too long.

On a recent visit, my friend and I indulged in a couple of dishes: the Cubain panini ($9.95, trust me on this one), the Egg in Your Face panini ($8.95) and the salad of the day ($8 for small, $12 for meal size). I have to say that over the past couple years, I’ve had a rediscovery of pork products. Bacon can make anything better, but so can pancetta, speck, pork belly, prosciutto, Serrano ham, pulled pork… and on, and on. All this to say, the Cubain is doubled-up on pork, something once unthinkable and now my O&G staple. Pressed between homemade bread lies jambonneau, braised pork, chipotle mayo, pickles and Gruyère cheese. With the perfect amount of fat, creaminess and spicy zing, this baby never lets me down.

This was the first time I tried the Egg in Your Face panini and it won’t be the last. With a proper poached egg, roasted tomato, chives, Comte cheese and prosciutto, O&G seems to have this magic touch that amplifies flavours with the simplest of combinations. It satisfied a craving for that gooey, eggy, melted cheese duo with just a smidgen of grease in between.

Other noteworthy sandwiches are the Cajun chicken ($9.95) with guacamole, tomatoes and fresh mangoes, and the goat cheese panini ($8.95) with caramelized onions and their awesome homemade ketchup. I know that, for many, a $10 sandwich might not be exactly budget, but the consistency of their produce and the products they deliver make this place worthwhile, if not a special treat. Whether it’s the freshly baked bread, the quality of their meats and cheeses, or maybe the fact that their portions are just the right size to be satisfying without stuffing your face, damn, these guys make a good sandwich.

The salad was made up of couscous, eggplant, cherry tomatoes, celery, red onions, cucumber, chickpeas, toasted pine nuts, feta and dill in an almost not there vinaigrette of olive oil and lemon juice. The eggplant was roasted and cut into little tender cubes, and the goat’s feta was smooth without being too biting or salty. The variety of vegetables gave the salad great texture and the fresh dill was like summer in my mouth.

The saddest part about these salads is that you never really know how long they’ll be around or whether they’ll make a re-appearance. I once had an amazing broccoli one that would have made any hater swoon, and then, poof! It was gone. I’m still waiting.

The selection of baked goodies range from muffins to brioches, cookies to squares, but I have two personal favourites. The Extraordinary Brownie, one of the richest, pasty-chocolaty-mouth brownies I’ve had, is made with Valhora chocolate and a bit of espresso. And for something leaning less towards a diabetic coma, try their Palmiers made with Tahitian vanilla bean. They’re feathery, crisp and ideal with coffee.

I know that I’m singing pretty high praises about Olive and Gourmando, but I’m never disappointed and there are few places that can deliver like that. What can I say? It’s a great place to eat.