Sushi in the house

Uchi’s blend of ingredients and
presentation leads to pleasing results

by MATHILDE RABBAT

Only a few blocks away from the bustling strip—turned bustling pedestrian walkway—of Ste-Catherine E., amongst a spattering of stylish retro furniture shops is where you’ll find the equally stylish Uchi. Specializing in fine cuisine from the Land of the Rising Sun, Uchi means house or home in Japanese. Maki and temaki names, such as “Montréal,” “Amherst” and “Le Village,” pay homage to the area in which the resto stands.

With over 75 varieties to choose from, their sushi/sashimi/maki collection borders on the overwhelming. Larger sushi-loving groups may enjoy the 38-piece sushi combo artfully served on a longboat ($51.95). But if the budget permits, I strongly advise gravitating towards the eatery’s sushi specialties ($8.95–$15.95 for anywhere from two to six rolls). Sure, you can opt for classics like spicy salmon, tuna, yellowtail and the like from the nigiri sushi and sashimi category. But why have those when you can savour such enticing Uchi specialties as the “Samurai,” the “Creamy” or the “Lovely Roll?” All ingredients are well-matched and finely turned out to inject a dose of originality and delight to the palate.

The Lovely Roll ($8.95 for five pieces), perhaps so named because of its crimson strawberry filling, seems to be a favourite and with good reason. Who would have thought that strawberry, avocado, crab, soy paper and sweet sauce could be fashioned in such a way as to produce a lightly sweet and simple, delightful concoction?

The Creamy proved to be another winner, with its sectioned deep fried spring roll wrap, enveloping a scrumptious creamy béchamel mixture, fashioned with shrimp and lettuce and accompanied by a splash of tartar sauce ($8.95). The more uncommon Samurai ($9.50 for five pieces) will knock your socks off with portions of raw filet mignon sharing the roll with cucumber and ginger, best enjoyed swished in a tangy, spicy and very yummy soy and sesame oil dipping sauce.

Another delicious choice was the Idaho maki sushi (five pieces for $5.95), which, as you may have guessed, incorporates potato—well, tempura sweet potato, to be exact—along with avocado and ginger, once again a winning combination.

The Green Fountain sashimi ($3.50 for two pieces), a pretty designation indeed and appropriately named for its somewhat cascading appearance, is created by stuffing two hollowed out cucumber pedestals with deep green slivers of marinated seaweed and a vibrant red roe topping. Aesthetically interesting, yes, but a little lacklustre when it came to taste, especially compared to the flavour combos described above.

If nigiri sushi, hoso maki and the like don’t particularly grab you, the menu features a whole slew of other selections from entrées ($4.95–$9.95) to main and side dishes. Certain combos ($17.95–$20.95), like the grilled eel main, also include a small but respectable miso soup, steamed rice and regular salad. The dashi seafood miso appetizer got things off right with an array of shrimp, scallops and crab ($3.95). As for the unagi don (grilled eel) itself, the priciest dinner offering on the menu, those who appreciate a good slab of eel will no doubt find it satisfying.

You can’t buy any sake here, but you can bring your own wine. No other spirits will be admitted however, as the words “vin seulement” prominently grace the front window. Still, it’s convenient and decidedly less costly to have the option of bringing-your-own in an Asian eatery, a perk we tend to associate more with Mediterranean joints.

My only real beef with the amazing trio of specialties mentioned above is the order in which they were served. The Idaho should have come first and the Lovely reserved for the grande finale, not the other way around, as was the case. Looks as though I have a few special requests in that regard for my next visit, since—mark my words—there will indeed be a next time.