Spiced up

French standards get a flavourful
kick at La Gaudriole

by MATHILDE RABBAT

In some culinary circles, the term “fusion” has morphed into a four letter word, as an over-abundance of eateries adopted it as modus operandi about a decade ago, yet weren’t quite up to the daunting task. It’s hardly surprising since a high degree of intuitive skill is required to successfully combine eclectic ingredients that, at first glance, make strange bedfellows. It’s a challenge that Nadia Boudreau, owner and chef of east Laurier’s La Gaudriole, was willing to tackle when she took over the business from her mentor, Marc Vézina, a few months ago.

The menu card typically runs à la carte prices, and another table d’hôte column reserved for appetizer/main dish combos. A seasonal menu shuffles the spice cabinet by offering a repertoire of French dishes imbued with flavours from abroad.

Appetizers range between $6 and $18, and main selections, priced under $30, feature fish, lamb, duck and game, spiked with cumin, curcuma, ginger or sesame oil. Flavours more traditionally found in French dishes, like those of tarragon and basil, are by no means absent, as no combination of spices seems to be taboo in this newly revamped, stylish establishment.

I liked the fact that the server sliced a fresh bunch of bread for us, in anticipation of our appetizers, both hits in my book. The two appetizers featured celeriac, better known as celery root, in very enjoyable fried and raw forms. The sliced fried root was all it was cracked up to be, and it made for some of the best thin crisps I’ve ever crunched. The mayo-based remoulade—C’est très français, non?—also held its own, assisted by a few green onion ringlets, and a bright raspberry couli dribble.

The other appetizer, a variation of the former topped by a shrimp high-rise, lacked no drama of its own ($12 à la carte, $3 when combined with a main). This shrimp trio, though cooked just right, lost its flavour in a tonka bean (native to South America) and whisky glaze, with both ingredients working well together to produce interesting tasty overtones.

As sometimes happens, the excitement garnered over the appetizers fizzled when the mains made their way to the table. As part of Wednesday’s “Spécial du voisin” ($22), the boudin noir, which admittedly sounds much better than the English “blood sausage,” though seasoned with a berber spice mix, including cumin, curcuma and the more exclusive fleur de sel, failed to hit the mark. The ground sausage formed the foundation for a layer of mashed potato, topped with a warm glazed onion blanket. Cooked apple cubes wading in a sweet cumin glaze, green string beans and a lone grilled asparagus provided a welcome portion of fruits and flavourful veggies, but the dish left me cold.

The same doesn’t entirely hold true for the braised lamb shank hailing from our belle province, patiently and tenderly cooked to absolute perfection ($34 on the table d’hôte), like the accompanying snow peas, grilled yellow pepper and asparagus. Less impressive was the mushroom risotto displayed aside the meat in the same deep bowl. Pungent mushrooms, like the extra firm grains with which they were intermingled, were undercooked in their white wine reduction. Not helping things any was an overabundance of contrasting spices, especially a heavy dose of ginger. Overall, the dish would have benefited from a less-is-more approach—a more understated and less varied use of spices.

What would a French bistro be without an assortment of cheeses? You can find those here too, some from our own backyards, like Le Curé Hébert from the Saguenay-Lac Saint-Jean area ($8). And if you’re looking to up your caloric intake, sample the decadent, sweeter than sweet, tangy lemon tart, served alongside delightful fresh vanilla whipped cream and a scoop of white chocolate ice cream ($8).