Arcada fire

No frills and lots of grilling at new
Portuguese eatery on the Main

by MATHILDE RABBAT

On many a stroll through Little Italy in the evening, I’ve often wondered where the appeal lies in tavern-style coffee houses and eateries lit by nothing but bright fluorescents. That’s the way it is in some parts of Italy and Greece; and, if Arcada on St-Laurent is any indication, that’s the way it is in some towns in Portugal. I’m told the owner is no stranger to the resto business, having opened an eatery of the same name in Portugal before settling here.

What you won’t find in this joint is a fresh take on Portuguese standards, as the eatery prefers to focus on a few basic staples, served on tiled tabletops of course. Ex-pats can be heard conversing in their mother tongue, among the sounds of TVs running on two different Portuguese stations, and Portuguese disco playing on a sound system.

Authenticity and simplicity rule in this relatively new eatery, present on the Main since early fall. Both cooking and noshing take place in the same room, and sparks can be seen, and heard, rising from the grill where seafood, poultry, beef and pork are seared in an open kitchen.

Pao (bread) and small black olives will tide you over till your main arrives. In the beef category, the only contender figuring on the chalkboard menu is the bitoque, a hardy steak priced at $11.50. Surprisingly, there was no prego (garlic steak sandwich) to be found, but, I suspect, the kitchen would be accommodating enough to whip one of them up for you, if you asked nicely.

Under the porco category, selections include febras, pork scallops ($8.50), and the entrecosto de porco, spare ribs ($11.50). The latter stars a set of uncloaked grilled pork ribs, which I feel could have used a certain je-ne-sais-quoi in the pizzazz department, despite the fact that an enjoyable, tangy, red pepper based chilly sauce was provided. I would recommend another main over this one, some grilled poultry for example—$8.50 will buy you a quarter chicken, but be sure to allow 40 minutes prep time—or perhaps something from the sea.

For this reviewer, spotting bacalhau ($12.50) on the menu and not ordering it was simply not an option. It figured on the board as a plat du jour, which was an added bonus. The process begins when the cod is beheaded, gutted, and partially de-boned, then salted and dried. These last two steps, a traditional way of conserving certain foods, help preserve the fish till someone like me gets a craving. Soak it in water, slap it on the grill, cook it just right, and what you’ve got is a flaky, tender and mild slab of cod infused with those distinct barbecue overtones that only an open flame can produce.

It’s a traditional Portuguese dish best enjoyed with a healthy dose of olive oil drizzled overtop. Mains come with acompanhado, a soup such as cream of vegetable with chickpea, fries and a simple romaine salad with a light vinaigrette. The irregularly shaped fries, though not of the home variety (I enquired), managed to cover all the bases nonetheless: crispy, tasty and lightly golden. When you’re done with those, may I recommend an espresso with a shot of ever-so-smooth Macieira brandy?

The fact that the place’s baseboard heaters don’t quite seem to do the trick on a blustery winter’s eve put a damper on enjoying the meal to its fullest, but what the resto lacks in heat, it more than makes up for in the warm demeanour of the staff.

The friendly and laidback atmosphere is reminiscent of a small town tavern back in the old country, where a steady stream of locals pop in for a drink, a handful of peanuts and a chat, engaging punters in small talk, ranging from complaints about the weather to discussions over which SAQs carry certain types of Portuguese booze.