Vegan beacon

La Lumière du Mile-End spotlights vegetarian
and vegan fare in a cozy setting

by MATHILDE RABBAT

Vegetarians seem to be multiplying by the nanosecond, yet my experience has shown that many eateries still offer little more than salads and fries for those who have made the ethical, or healthy choice, to stick to flesh-free diets.

A piece of artwork near the front door depicting the words “Food Is Life” sets the tone at La Lumière du Mile-End, a beacon for like-minded souls who wish to nosh on nothing but modestly priced veggie bites.

He probably wasn’t a vegetarian, but something tells me that if the Earl of Sandwich were here today, he would without a doubt approve of the eatery’s selection of sandwiches. The menu is full of options with intriguing names like the “Whoa Black Betty,” which incorporates an olive tapenade and roasted red peppers, and the “Elvis,” featuring peanut butter and honey, but no Twinkies.

A sandwich of a slightly different kind, the burger, also figures on the chalkboard menu. Some varieties fall into the vegan category, like the black bean and quinoa burgers, both of which will set you back five bucks, seven if you’d like to complement it with a garden salad. The patties are snuggly tucked between two halves of a toasted hamburger bun. Since neither quinoa nor beans tend to pack a punch when it comes to arousing the taste buds, other ingredients are called upon to fulfil the role.

The quinoa burger came with a fair dose of Dijon replete with whole mustard seeds, while the black bean patty, interlaced with rice, was dressed in a refreshing and enjoyable mango salsa. The spicy recipe also incorporates corn—’tis the season—red onion, tomato and cilantro, helping to make this burger a success.

Nothing is too elaborate, and one gets the impression that Trixie, the lady of the resto, likes to keep things simple and wholesome. The salad, composed of a variety of fresh mixed greens, julienne cucumbers and lovely mauve rainbow carrots, provides a case in point with its uncomplicated oil and white vinegar drizzle.

Though I do very much enjoy quinoa as a rule, the black bean burger beats it out by a longshot, chiefly because the salsa topping proved to be so much more eventful than the former—the Dijon was simply not captivating enough to carry it.

Selections aren’t restricted to burgers and sandwiches. An enticing samosa special with mango chutney is up for grabs for less than a fiver. It must be said that portions are not terribly filling, even with the addition of a salad, so you’ll probably want to cap the meal off with something like a dessert and perhaps a fair trade coffee, some organic tea, or a just as organic lemonade.

A limited selection of desserts may include a plum cake or—rather bizarrely—a slice of gingerbread.

I’m told it’s an old Northern English recipe, which amounted to a thin, but dense, pungent square spiked with cardamom and ginger with a grainy brown sugar coating. One piece goes a long way by feeding at least two, as this sweet proved to be extremely filling, on the heavy side, in fact.

Besides prizing vegetarianism, the eatery also supports other ethically minded community initiatives, like a ladybug release in June, a gentle pesticide-free way to counter aphid infestations in gardens. If you’ve ever owned a hibiscus, you know what tenacious little buggers they can be.

This kid-friendly folksy joint feels like it’s been around far longer than the few months it’s been operational, as regulars can already be spotted kicking back amongst the birdhouses, by the pond in the cozy courtyard out back, ceramic mug in tow. You may even catch a live folk band on your next visit, lending a pub-like character to this welcome addition to the neighbourhood.