One-woman show

>>Maryska provides a home-cooked
alternative to a brown bag lunch

by MATHILDE RABBAT

In contrast to the best bagel joints in the city, which never close, stands Maryska. A neighbouring eatery on St-Viateur, it is named after its owner, scarcely open more than a dozen hours per week, never on weekends and only for lunch. And you thought Wilensky’s hours were limited.

The fact that this is strictly a one-woman operation accounts for the narrow opening hours. Like me, you may wonder how a place with such limited hours can survive outside of the bustling downtown core, especially since there is no real dearth of lunchtime eateries in the area it calls home.

On the other hand, living in the shadow of a giant like Ubisoft, and other enterprises from the manufacturing sector, can be a good thing when those hungry worker bees spill out onto the streets when the noon whistle blows. So what is it that keeps them coming back?

Lunch selections are limited to a choice of two dishes that vary daily for a fixed price of $12. No matter which you choose, you’ll also get to sample a soup of the day or a salad. Both of these, preceded by sliced Première Moisson baguette, are simple enough.

My enjoyable creamy soup consisted of a white veggie puréed number, with celery, onion and potato and just the right pinches of salt and pepper. The only frills you’ll see in the salad are the ones on your romaine lettuce, as this too is kept simple. No tomato, cucumber or onion figure therein, only a shredded carrot mow hill. Both the romaine leaves and the carrot bunch are dressed with nothing but a mild vegetable oil and white vinegar drizzle.

Simplicity further reigns when it comes to main courses. Even though Maryska herself hails from Poland, what you won’t find on the menu are Polish specialties, on account of their lengthy prep times. Some days, chicken coated in maple syrup will figure in the offerings. Other days, you may find a dish incorporating smoked salmon, pork in a barbecue sauce or coq au vin, like mine.

The coq au vin, infused with smoked pork, harboured a slow-cooked, fall-off-the-bone, tasty tenderness. My enthusiasm waned when it came to the coq’s bedfellows however. An accompanying veggie side mix (corn, diced carrot, green beans and peas) failed to impress, as it was of the sort that can be purchased at the grocery store in the frozen food section.

They were also bathed in way too much butter for my liking, as was a heaping mound of fusilli, but I’ve never been a fan of plainly buttered pasta.

As for the pork, a tangy maroon sauce proved to be a welcome addition to a flavourful schwein chop. A ball of plain white sticky rice took care of the carb portion of the meal, and the same vegetable mix figured here as with the former dish. Adequate portions will ensure that you get back to the grindstone satisfied, after sipping a delectable espresso allongé also included in the lot, which is a nice touch.

Maryska—the establishment, not the owner and cook—has recently undergone a facelift. The procedure may not have worked for many aging Hollywood celebs, but in this case it can be deemed a success. A new lick of baby blue, pale yellow and pastel pink on tables, chairs and walls is a throwback to infancy, or to Don Johnson’s Miami Vice suits, whichever you prefer.

Nancy-these-boots-are-made-for-walking-Sinatra and Lee Hazelwood duets on the sound system, coupled with Audrey Hepburn’s likeness on the wall along with prints sporting caddy convertibles from the ’50s ad ’60s, help make the transformation from old and tired to young and vibrant complete.

The environment is an inviting one, the service friendly and the dishes have a comforting home-cooked feel, making it seem more like a friend invited you over for dinner than a resto meal, which is no doubt appreciated by punters.

Whatever the reason for Maryska’s success, the strategy has proven to be a winner.