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Back to the land>> Équiterre’s organic food baskets harvest Quebecers’ desires for local eats
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California strawberries, Ecuadorian bananas, Mexican avocados—the average Quebec kitchen bears the fruits of globalization, much to the chagrin of local farmers. According to Statistics Canada, Quebec has lost 5,316 farms in the past 12 years. In 2005, Quebec farms collectively grossed $7.4-billion, but operating costs reached $6-billion. The future of farming in this province may appear bleak, but a growing trend towards organic farming and an emphasis on buying local produce casts much-needed light on Quebec agriculture. Isabelle Joncas estimates that this year, 10,800 Quebec families—roughly 33,000 people—will get the bulk of their produce through Équiterre’s Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) network, a program now in its 13th year comprising 114 organic farms, 98 of which offer food baskets (the others offer complementary products, like honey). “Having a close relationship with a farmer puts you in contact with the reality of farming,” says Joncas, Équiterre’s CSA network coordinator. For a province with a rich farming history, growing urbanism has alienated many Quebecers, half of whom live in the greater Montreal area, from the process of food production, she says. Joncas points out that having clients sign up for food baskets in late winter/early spring allows farmers to plan their seasons and helps curb some of the start-up costs, like heating greenhouses, purchasing seeds and hiring farm hands. It also allows farmers and consumers to partake in risk and benefit sharing—if they have a bad season, you might get six heads of lettuce, but a bountiful harvest can yield a cornucopia of fresh food. Quebecers can purchase a share of a farm’s harvest before the season begins, and in return they receive a weekly or bi-weekly food basket with locally produced organic fruits, vegetables and even meat. The cost of the share depends on the size of the basket (some farms offer only one size; others offer several sizes), frequency of delivery and the duration of the harvest, so it can cost anywhere from $250 to $500 for the whole season. Farmers bring their baskets to designated drop-off points for clients to pick up; there are 95 points in Montreal alone. “Each dollar invested in Quebec communities will have positive repercussions on society,” Joncas says. Investing in Quebec farms boosts local economies and drastically cuts one’s environmental footprint—after all, the difference between Hemmingford and Costa Rica can be over 10,000 gallons worth of fuel. Joncas points out that buying a share in a local farm not only ensures you eat your veggies, but it allows consumers to try different things. “The fun thing is, it’s a privilege to have access to such a variety,” she says. For the list of farms in the CSA network, visit www.equiterre.org/agriculture. Growing goods
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