Cruisin’ for a braising

>> Braseiro blazes a trail with
smoky Portuguese grilled goods

by MATHILDE RABBAT

Not so long ago, it seemed as though charcoal barbecues were going the way of the Rubik’s Cube, as relics of the past. Their recent resurgence in the Canadian Tires of this world must mean that some folks long to recover those smoky overtones that only a coal-powered unit can produce. These same folks will no doubt appreciate the Portuguese specialties up for grabs at cozy Portuguese eatery Braseiro, located on St-Laurent, a stone’s throw away from Jarry Park, where braising is decidedly the rule of thumb. The name of the resto itself, which translates as “brazier”—not to be confused with brassière—refers to this method of cooking, as mostly everything on the menu card has spent some time basking over coals.

Authentic fluffy Portuguese bread, considerably less salty than what we’re generally used to here, is sectioned into quarters and served warm along with a bowl of assorted tasty olives. But for the fries, all of the entrées, and most other dishes, prominently feature non-vegetarian items as Portuguese cooking is known for its seafood and grilled meats. Tapas selections ranging from $6–$11 incorporate grilled half or whole chouriço (sausage), camarão con àlho (garlic shrimp), grilled lulas (squid), polvo (octopus) and sardinhas (sardines), as well as, mexilhão (mussels), grilled cordonizes (quails) and an assorted cheese platter.

You’ll have a schwein of a time if you order the chouriço. One bite says it all, this is a pork sausage. Besides that all-important vital ingredient, Portuguese chouriço typically incorporates salt, wine and paprika. My slightly spicy sample comprised of deep coral chunks of unminced meat grilled over a coal stove before being sprawled onto a romaine bed with chickpeas, an assortment of beans and chopped marinated hot pepper rings. Half a chouriço ($6.95) is more than enough to whet the appetite, at least for a noshing couple. I can’t say that I enjoyed it more than the grilled octopus, but I’m quite sure sausage lovers would relish every bite.

Now for the main courses, the prato mixto de polvo/lulas ($17.50), a calamari and grilled octopus dish, gets a thumbs up, or is it eight? The rubber factor was eradicated altogether in favour of a more tender approach. Flavourful grilled octopus arms serpent around the dish like three long locks and intermingle with two large, empty, calamari tubes crowned with a delicious diced onion, tomato, green and red pepper salsa. This is accompanied by an interesting, if bitter, rapini, carrot and zucchini stir fry, and half of an uneventful boiled potato, which seemed to be pretty salty, at least in comparison with the moderate salting of the other ingredients.

When a Portuguese-style steak meets a sunny-side-up egg, it results in what amounts to be a cholesterol-laden affair, termed bitoque ($12.95). This type of combo where protein meets protein has always struck me as somewhat odd, but it could come in handy to fuel, say, three long hours of shovelling, or bench-pressing about 100 pounds. That having been said, the only real disappointment with this dish lies with the fries. A crispy, golden appearance masks unsalted overcooked taters. As to the steak itself, which had been marinated in oil, it was everything a braised steak should be: juicy and properly seared. Simple romaine salads interspersed with red onion ringlets and tomato wedges that accompany both aforementioned mains are drizzled with a basic but tangy, white vinegar and oil dressing, and act as a refreshing and much needed counterpoint to the heavier components of these two dishes.

If a Portuguese pork sandwich known as bifana, or one with beef (prego) is what you’re craving, they’ve got that too ($4.50–$5.50), along with the ever-popular bacalhau a braz, braised cod with fries ($17).

Should you visit on a game night, thanks to a flat screen behind the bar, you can root for the Habs while enjoying an imported Sagres or Super Bock ($6). Or watch the game in the comfort of your own home with a brew from the corner dep, since the menu also features a take-away grilled half or whole bird ($11).