Big fat Greek meal

>> Mykonos on Monkland prizes no-frill
standards over fancy gimmicks

by MATHILDE RABBAT

Unlike other eateries around town known for such things as stylish decor, a selective clientele, pricey eats, huge or tiny portions, experimental cuisine or creative prepping and fusion of ingredients, Mykonos, one of the latest additions to Monkland in NDG, nails Greek standards without succumbing to all that jazz.

From appetizers to main dishes, no selection strays beyond the confines of the typical Greek cuisine we’ve come to know and love. A, dare I say it, predictable menu that features nothing but the old reliables. “Predictable” may be a bad word in some people’s books, including my own on most days, but it needn’t be in this case. That having been said, what you will most certainly not find on the no-nonsense card are frilly dishes or edible architectural masterpieces that try ever so hard to impress.

The hors d’oeuvres may not quite be chefs d’oeuvres, but, by Giorgo, do they ever taste good. In the interest of variety, I headed straight for the pikilia platter ($13) in order to sample as many of the orektika (appetizers) selections as possible. There are two of everything, so it should tide over as many people till main portions hit the table. The dolmadakia (veggie grape leaves), spiked with a touch of mint, were a little too puny and somewhat uneventful for my liking, but let’s talk spreads. Looks like someone might have been gazing out the window instead of down at the bowl when they added a truckload of garlic to the potato-based skordalia. I’ve noshed on kopanisti before, but never enjoyed it as much as the one featured in my pikilia. Let’s just say that feta and grilled, minced red peppers make great bedfellows.

In addition, Goldilocks would have approved of the tatziki, made with shredded cucumber and a hint of dill, which was neither too garlicky nor too runny nor too viscous. As to the taramosalata (carp roe spread), don’t let the bright pink hue put you off; it was thoroughly enjoyable, as was the spanakopita duo. These filo, spinach and cheese triangles were on the tiny side of things, like the stuffed vine leaves, but quite scrumptious with their crunchy exterior and tender innards, fortunately avoiding the dryness trap to which this appetizer often falls prey. With so many spreads on the dish, I would have preferred to have more than just two grilled mini-pita wedges to slop all of them up with, but I suppose that’s where the accompanying tomato and cucumber slices come into play.

Beef, lamb, chicken, pork, calamari and shrimp, along with grilled fresh fish (snapper, porgy and sea bass), all make up the tis oras (main selections grilled to order). Prices range between $10 for the hirino souvlaki (pork brochette) platter to more pricey dishes, like the paidakia (grilled lamb chops), which will set you back 21 smackers. Fond of extremes, I had, and enjoyed, both. The hirino was good, but it was the lamb that stole the show, though that’s a bit like comparing a dandelion with an orchid, I suppose. It’s hard to compete with extra tender, well seasoned, grilled chops. Many of the main selections, served on warm plates incidentally, come with rice, potatoes and a house salad topped with an orange remoulade of sorts. For an extra toonie, you can also swap that salad for a Greek one, if you prefer.

Miraculously, the assortment of greens, the golden fried potatoes and even the yellow rice cooked in broth were well executed as to both texture and flavour. In addition, portions were hearty enough without wasteful supersizing. The grilled lamb chops can even be had with or without the side trio. In short, if you’re in the market for no-frill Greek favourites, then this is the place for you. The outdoor terrasse even boasts its own set of speakers, an added bonus.