by MARK SLUTSKY

Sushi in Montreal: the eternal dilemma. For whatever reason, this can be a tough town for lovers of Japanese food. There’s a wide class divide when it comes to sushi: either you pony up for the good stuff in the fancy joints, or you settle for often sub-par cheap stuff at an express counter. What Montreal really needs is the type of casual, mid-range resto common in Vancouver and Toronto.

Tri Express isn’t going to fill that gap, except perhaps aesthetically: it looks more like a bright bistro than a white-tablecloth restaurant, although its prices tend to lean towards the latter. But what chef Tri Du, formerly of Kaizen and Treehouse, does bring to the table, is inventive, creatively prepared and delicious sushi that outdoes pricier places in its originality and delightful presentation.

Situated in a cozy (in that you better make a reservation) spot on Laurier E. a block west of Papineau, Tri Express gives the impression of constant activity, although that didn’t quite translate to speedy service. If you want to keep it simple, the chef offers a few prix fixe menus. There are three lunch specials under $20, and for dinner, there’s three omakase specials ranging from $20–$40.

On a recent visit, we split a couple omakases and ordered the rest à la carte. The specials started off with a brilliant sashimi salad: salmon cut paper-thin and dressed with a marvelous citrus and sesame vinaigrette. The salad was punctuated with tiny slices of green apple, black sesame seeds and dots of tiny, iridescent red roe. That beautiful red was to recur through the meal, showing up on various rolls and other dishes, and the lovely colour stood out as the restaurant’s distinct visual signature.

Also included with the specials were four pieces of nigiri: salmon, tuna, swordfish (an intriguing orange treat which I’d never had before in that form) and shrimp. Ten pieces of maki rounded out the deal—five pieces of their Le St-Joseph and five spicy tuna. The St-Joseph roll was made with a great tartar of tuna and salmon, a concoction we’d see elsewhere in the evening and which we’d affectionately deemed the restaurant’s miraculous “mush.” It really was, and mixed with tempura, asparagus, avocado and pollock, it made for a fine roll. The simpler spicy tuna, rolled up with green onions and cucumber, was tasty as well, if not as memorable.

Other rolls we sampled à la carte included the Montréal ($8.50), made with shrimp, lobster, mandarin orange, avocado and asparagus. The orange was a curious touch, but it worked and brought even more colour to a meal already awash in reds, pinks and other bright hues. Le Favori de Tri ($8) was also a winner, a candy-like maki rolled up in rice paper, avocado, tempura and our choice of tuna, salmon or lobster, served with a citrus-y dipping sauce.

The sushi pizza is a mainstay at most North American sushi shops; it usually consists of a flat, deep-fried rice cake topped with salmon or tuna, mayonnaise, green onions and roe, then sliced into sections. Mileage varies from restaurant to restaurant, but Tri’s ($18.75) was truly exceptional, and one of the meal’s highlights. The rice was wrapped in nori before frying, giving it a little extra crunch and flavour (as did a mysterious hint of cinnamon), and the cake was heaped high with that magic mush, as well as sliced fish and avocado. It’s available in salmon, shrimp, lobster or tuna, and if you can stomach the price, it’s a can’t-miss—advice that could apply to the restaurant as a whole.

Curry in a hurry

Plateau-dwellers may remember the delicious Malaysian cookery of local bon vivant (and, full disclosure, Mirror staffer) Nantha Kumar from his days at Else’s, Copacabana and his own Nantha’s Kitchen. Those who do likely still yearn for his delicious curry and noodle dishes. Happily, Kumar and partners Ali Hassan and Ebenezer George have opened a new takeout spot on 68 Duluth E., Cash and Curry. Mee goreng, pad thais, and of course the curries, all come recommended. Pick-up only, call (514) 284-5696 for details.

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Tri Express
ADDRESS: 1650 Laurier E. (west of Papineau)
PHONE: (514) 528-5641
HOURS: Tue–Fri 11 a.m.–10 p.m.; Sat–Sun 4–10 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: Exquisitely presented and creatively prepared sushi
ALCOHOL: No
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: If you eat fish
CREDIT CARDS: Cash only
PRICE: Lunch $15–$20, dinner $20–$45, before tip
RATING: *** out of ****