by GENEVIEVE PAIEMENT

Just as the ghost of a former inhabitant can hang around a house, the spectre of a previous venture can linger in a new restaurant, emitting its own subtle energy vibrations. Such is the case with Helm, which bills itself as a “brasseur gourmand,” where one can discern the faint aftertaste of former occupant Futenbulle, a brasserie that closed less than a year ago, after 15 years in the same spot.

Though the décor is a little sleeker now, with shiny new wooden tables and wooden chairs with bright orange upholstery, the emphasis is still on beer and the food could still be described as pub grub, though Helm’s spin on it is decidedly more sophisticated. For weeks, every time I walked past, the joint was glaringly empty (the floor-to-ceiling front window affords views of the entire joint). We decided to give the place a whirl one night, to find out exactly what kind of brews are on tap and which gourmand eats are on offer.

After chatting with our cheerful waitress, who was only too happy to explain each small, tapas-esque dish and to go out back to ask any questions she wasn’t able to answer, we ordered a few beverages. It turns out there is a modest selection of beers and ciders, with only two of the seven beers on tap actually brewed by Helm, three by Brossard-based micro-brewers Les Trois Mousquetaires, two by St-Ambroise.

I got a bottle of Coeur a Tout cider ($6.50), there were two orders of the Helm bitter American pale ale ($3.50) and a Trois Mousquetaires rousse ($3.50). All draft beers are $3.50–$5.50, with prices varying by size and, strangely, by time of day—day prices are cheaper than night. The beer connoisseur at our table, who’s way into the art of home brewing, judged the bitter to be pretty average. I enjoyed my bottle of cider though, with its subtle balance of tang and sweetness.

As for the menu, it resembles a Québécois spin on tapas, with small plates incorporating ingredients such as Quebec cheeses, cider and maple syrup. There are also all of four tartares (tuna, salmon, beef and deer).

After hemming and hawing at length, two of us decided to split the Plat Paysan ($20) including foie gras, the duck rilletes (a paté-like spread of shredded duck cooked slowly in fat) and a choice of two cheeses. The waitress rattled off about six cheese choices and we went for the Grand Manitou (a beguiling blend of cow’s, sheep’s and goat’s milks) and the Cru d’érable (a soft cow’s milk cheese reminiscent of a camembert, where maple syrup imparts a subtle flavour to the rind). We also added to this an order of spicy tuna tartare ($12.25) for good measure.

Next we ordered a warm salad of endive, fennel, apple and hazelnuts ($6), some green beans with Bleu Benedictin cheese sauce ($6.25), the cod “acras” (croquette-like fried cakes, $6), the crab fritters ($7.75) and, finally, the veal mini-burgers with caramelized onions ($6.50). As we sat waiting for our food, alone in the joint, one of us wondered aloud whether the font used in Helm’s logo that is so prominently featured on the front window wasn’t a little too “scary death metal-ish,” which may frighten people away. With no orders ahead of us, our food came quickly.

The winners: the veal burgers (luscious), the rillettes (upscale comfort food), the tartare (incredibly fresh), the green beans (cooked just right) and the cheeses (delightful). The losers: the fried crab and cod cakes were bland, both accompanied by a dull orange-coloured mystery sauce. And those looking for dessert will have to look elsewhere—I guess sophisticated pub grub doesn’t extend to the sweet stuff. All in all though, the portions were generous and we came away satisfied.

We left wondering whether Helm would take off, whether those first brave customers would look past the intimidating font and the emptiness. Then, recently, things started looking up. I walked past on a Friday night and Helm was full of young revelers knocking back beers and shouting over the pumping music. Who knows? Helm may steer a triumphant course yet.

HELM
ADDRESS: 273 Bernard W.
PHONE: (514) 276-0473
HOURS: 3 p.m.–3 a.m. every day; food is served 4–10:30 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: Generous portions, interesting small dishes highlighting local ingredients
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
PRICE: $12–$25 per person, before taxes and wine
RATING: ** and a half out of ****