by MATHILDE RABBAT

Up until quite recently, the only “agora” I knew had “phobia” tacked onto the end of it. Thankfully, this angst association has been replaced by something far more reassuring: a nifty little Greek joint on NDG’s Somerled. Agora’s menu cover sets the record straight for me with a proper definition: the marketplace in an ancient Greek city.

The restaurant opens when the noon whistle blows with lunch specials galore till 4 p.m. After that you’ve got a healthy selection of early-bird dinner specials (all $9.95). Both come with a choice of Greek or Agora salad, rice or fries, garlic bread and tzatziki. Portions are more than satisfying. For lunch, there are souvlaki (pork), chicken or doner (lamb) brochettes, appearing either wrapped in pita ($3.25–$4.25) or pita-less dishes incorporating the same ingredients, along with other variations like spanakopita ($6.50–$8.95). The early bird features Atlantic salmon as well. Dinnertime adds gyros to the mix, plus a kid’s menu for $5.75 for those pre-teens out there.

Regardless of when you go, you can’t go wrong with an appetizer like the taramosalata ($2.95 for a small). This glistening pink fish roe spread, with just the right degree of fishiness, is great on toasted garlic bread. Same goes for the creamy tzaziki, though I would’ve loaded it with lots more garlic. I could see where some people would prefer regular bread with the dips because garlic bread can be a little too heavy in combination with a thick spread. If you enjoy dolmadakia ($3.95) as much as I do, you’ll really enjoy this starter. Whet your appetite with a series of soft, yet not too limp grape leaves, dripping in translucent olive oil, stuffed with rice and spiked with just a hint of mint—a nice surprise, indeed.

As to the Agora salad, a tangy yet sweet mayo-based house dressing cloaked huge white onion rings, iceberg leaves, a feta slab, large cucumber chunks and tomato half moons. The hearty portion of rice, cooked in broth with a few sparse veggies, that accompanies the platters was uneventful, far outshone by the souvlaki brochette itself. Nothing beats flame broiling, not to mention a well-matched marinade in which lemon juice, olive oil, oregano, salt and chili pepper mingle to produce a totally mouth-watering treat.

They say that the grilled chicken is the thing to gobble at this place, and, by Georgios, were they ever right. According to a reliable source, nothing is prefab when it comes to prepping the chicken. The entire process apparently only begins with the order itself. As soon as you decide on either a half ($8.95) or whole bird ($15.95), audible hacking begins in the kitchen to section out wings from other things, before the morsels are sprinkled with herb and slapped on the grill. Thankfully, the poultry is a far cry from the Colonel’s secret recipe, but I’m willing to bet it incorporates just about as many herbs and spices. Of these, the shredded peppercorns, oodles and oodles of them, stood out the most. Mustard seeds, olive oil and oregano also lent their pizzazz to this tasty dish. You’re free to squeeze your own lemon wedges overtop tender breast, leg and thigh, creating an absolutely delectable mix of lemon-pepper barbecued goodness.

Why not wash it all down with a good bottle of wine? Regions, such as Nemea, Naoussa, Napsani and Crete, are well represented on the card and will set you back no more than 20 bucks a bottle. Who knows, after a few drinks, you may even get the urge to purchase one of the pieces of original artwork by a Greek artist hanging in the joint depicting little blue and white houses sprinkled with flowers.

Agora
ADDRESS: 6544 Somerled
PHONE: (514) 227-0505
HOURS: Mon–Sat noon–10 p.m.; Sun 4–10 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: Anything flame-broiled, plus the prices.
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Not the washrooms
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
PRICE: $15 per person, after drinks, tax and tip.
RATING: *** out of ****