by A.J. KINIK

Montreal is certainly not without its fabled eating establishments, but this one’s a true legend. For years, I wasn’t even sure it actually existed. The details were sketchy. They went as follows: there was a small Italian importation house in the north end of town that ran an underground restaurant. By appointment only, they’d open up their doors to serve their brand of cucina rustica to a small coterie of aficionados. The place had no sign out front, no menu and no name. Over the years it had come to be known as No Name.

For a while I was content to just perpetuate the legend of No Name, but then last summer a gang of us decided enough was enough. We found a number, called it, placed a reservation, and a few days later there we were, sitting under the vines on the back patio of Trattoria Senza Nome, a.k.a. “the Restaurant With No Name.” Back then, Senza Nome still had no sign out front, and with mirrored windows facing St-Michel, it was difficult to spot without a precise address. These days, Senza Nome proudly, if discretely, sports its (no) name out front, but aside from that, the aura of that first visit hasn’t changed much. And it’s that aura that keeps its devotees coming back.

First of all, Senza Nome doesn’t hold regular hours. In order to get a table, you have to call in advance and book one with a party large enough to give the proprietors reason to open up shop. Eight is the magic number, although even a party of four can get you in on occasion, especially if you opt for a more elaborate meal or if they’ve got another table or two lined up for the same evening. Bring in a large group—15–20, say—on a lazy summer evening and it’s like having your own private party on the patio of your long-lost Italiano relatives. You’ll probably get a better deal too. Then there’s the ambiance: Senza Nome’s got a no-nonsense Italian deli/café vibe with just a few tables, their prized imports and a handful of posters adorning the walls (the holy trinity: Jimmy Hoffa, Al Pacino, Catherine Zeta-Jones).

Next there’s that patio. How many places in town can offer al fresco dining under real grapevines (not that plastic kitsch you see elsewhere)?

Finally, there’s the food. There’s no menu, so your options are limited—you pretty much leave yourself in the capable hands of the staff. But then when was the last time you asked for a menu at your Nonna’s place? Your only real options are whether to go vegetarian or not, how fancy you want your pasta dish to be, and whether you want to have that classic Italian combination of antipasto, a pasta course and a meat course, or just antipasto with a pasta dish. The whole package is complemented by the attentive, extremely personable service of Senza Nome’s proprietor, Biaggio Totarella. And if you’re really lucky, you’ll get a visit, possibly a story or two and maybe even a grappa, from his father, Senza Nome’s founder.

The lavish antipasto platter is a showcase of the Totarella family’s talents as importers. On a typical night, you’ll be treated to a huge assortment including a selection of Italian cheeses and cured meats, jumbo green olives, grilled artichokes, roasted red peppers and a marinated wild mushroom mix. When it comes to pasta dishes, the house specialty pairs your choice of short or long noodles with a simple porcini and sausage ragù with hints of white wine and garlic. Porcini mushrooms are the pride and joy of Senza Nome’s import business—they bring in hundreds of kilos annually—so not only are they of a particularly high quality here, they get offered up very generously. Your meat course generally consists of a sizeable veal chop pan-fried to perfection. And all of the above can be washed down with any one of a number of the good, hearty Italian wines they offer at very reasonable prices. Senza Nome doesn’t serve any desserts, but they definitely make a mean short espresso. Finally, the crowning touch is Senza Nome’s imports. Whatever you do, don’t go home without picking up a souvenir: a bottle of their house olive oil or balsamic vinegar, some antipasti or porcini.

Trattoria Senza Nome
ADDRESS: 9700 St-Michel
PHONE: 389-6732
HOURS: By appointment only
BEST FEATURES: Personal service and al fresco
dining under real grapevines
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Cash only
PRICE: $20–$40 per person with wine
RATING: *** out of ****