by AJ KINIK

I’d hesitate to say that there’s been a trend towards “smaller is better” in the realm of Montreal’s food scene over the last couple of years. But there’s no question that a number of the most interesting restos that have cropped up recently have taken humble spaces and turned them to their advantage, transforming them into bustling neighbourhood hot spots with personality to burn.

It’s also been nice to see the culinary geography of the city expand a bit over the same period. Acclaimed restaurants have forsaken some of the city’s gourmet ghettos and instead opened up in neighbourhoods that had tended to be overlooked, encouraging Montreal’s restaurant-goers to explore. One restaurant that stands as testament to both of these developments is Rosemont’s newly opened “bistro de quartier” M sur Masson.

Located in a tiny storefront directly across the street from Église Saint-Esprit, M sur Masson’s interior is bright and uncluttered, with large mirrors helping to create the illusion of depth, while archival photographs of Rosemont and the shop’s restored pressed-tin ceiling recall the district’s early 20th century heyday. The overall atmosphere is warm and inviting, in spite of its diminutive size.

And the food? Well, the kitchen staff are very handy indeed. Go for dinner and the prices are a bit out of the league of those trying to eat on a budget. Thankfully, M sur Masson offers very reasonable lunch and brunch deals that still manage to show off just what their chefs are capable of.

The highlights of a recent prix fixe luncheon included a delicate soupe de poisson ($16) with large chunks of tender fish and sweet, juicy shrimp served in a tomato-based broth, and a very unusual and unusually delicious grilled salmon appetizer ($3) made with applewood-smoked salmon served over a garlicky chickpea puree and drizzled with olive oil.

Even more satisfying was M sur Masson’s brunch—it’s so rare that you find a brunch that’s both different and exceptional. Two of us decided to stick to more classical brunch fare, while the third member of our party took advantage of the fact that their salade niçoise, a staple of their dinner menu, was being offered for brunch that day. Eggs benedict came served on a piece of toasted baguette instead of the traditional English muffin, with a thick slice of jambon à l’ancienne and the dreamiest of Hollandaise sauces. Cleverly, the folks at M sur Masson let you order your Benedict with one egg or two ($6/$10). The Salade Niçoise, with generous hunks of pan-seared sashimi-grade tuna topping everything from roasted peppers, fennel, black olives, anchovies and green beans, to asparagus, is surely the finest salad of its kind you’re likely to find in Montreal—in fact, you’d have a hard time finding a better one in Nice—and an absolute steal at the brunch price ($16).

My meal started off with a truly excellent chilled tomato soup ($4) that basically amounted to a garlicky but otherwise subdued French take on a traditional gazpacho, but it was my omelette that really stole the show. The omelette is both one of the most clichéd brunch offerings and one of the trickiest of French classics. We’ve all had omelettes, maybe even good ones, but how many of us have had a true French omelette, the kind French cookbooks devote pages and pages to? Not only will they ask how you’d like your omelette cooked at M sur Masson (I got mine cooked “medium-rare,” essentially), but they’ll cook it to perfection, resulting in a light, even airy, affair that’s really closer to a soufflé than your standard diner-issue western. Combine this deftness of technique with a filling comprised of tomato, asparagus and Quebec’s celebrated Riopelle cheese ($7.50) and you’re talking pure heaven. A shared portion of potatoes salardaises ($4.00)—potato rounds sautéed in duck fat with parsley and garlic—completed the scene, but was the one and only dish that didn’t quite live up to expectations.

M sur Masson
ADDRESS: 2876 Masson
PHONE: 514-678-2999
HOURS: Lunch, Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; brunch, Sat–Sun,
10 a.m.–3 p.m., open for dinner too!
BEST FEATURES: A true omelette
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
PRICE: $10–$20 per person for brunch
RATING: *** 1/2 out of ****