by MATHILDE RABBAT

Something caught my eye while strolling down Ste- Catherine a few weeks ago. It wasn’t nifty new digs, a buffed body or even a huge sale, but something much more unusual, at least in this town: two white-clad, rolling pin-packing ladies on display in a window. Before you jump to any naughty conclusions worthy of another column, allow me to explain that they were practising traditional Turkish gözleme baking at a three-month-old Anatolian eatery.

Whoever came up with the idea of putting the gözleme right up in front for passers by to see, instead of relegating bread-making to the back kitchen like the rest of the food, is a genius. Great way of drawing in the punters who’s first impression is no doubt, “What’s that?” when they see the bulbous sach, a traditional Turkish griddle, slow cooking huge bread patties on the city’s most bustling street. Once baked, the pita-like patties are stuffed with a choice of spinach and feta, feta alone, potato or minced meat, and folded into quarters. I haven’t tried all of the gözleme ($5.25–$5.75) yet, but I can tell you that the spinach and cheese one is heaven and that I’ll be back to try the others, which all come with a refreshing romaine side salad.

Since it varies daily, I hope you get the soup starter ($2.25) that I chanced upon, which was stuffed with corn, rice puffs, fresh parsley, chicken bits, chili oil, cardamom and a lemon wedge. Totally hot, as in good to the last drop and tongueburning too.

Though the menu features things like bagels and sandwiches for breakfast and even a Greek pikilia platter, the traditional Turkish delights such as the sach kavurma ($10.75) or the minty manti ($7.95) are much more fun. The sach kavurma is essentially a beef and veggie stir fry, incorporating onion, peppers, tomatoes, parsley and shredded chili, served in the wok-like pan it was cooked in and perched on a round wooden board. Mild when it comes to spices, but quite flavourful nonetheless.

It was the manti, however, that really stole the show. I wonder whose delicate little hands were skilled enough to form the tiny slippery dumplings that make up this scrumptious dish. A smooth skin envelops small, minced meatballs, and the whole thing lies beneath a light yogurt blanket, garnished with a few blobs of tomato paste and a heavy sprinkle of dried mint. It’s a great dish. If that hasn’t piqued your curiosity, you might like the köfte ($7.95), meatballs stuffed with ground beef, or the börek, filo pockets stuffed with potatoes and ground beef or the spinach and feta variety, both priced under $5. I also tried the tasty lahmajun ($4.95), a sort of Eurasian version of a pizza with minced meat and a touch of tomato sauce.

I can’t go to one of these places without having some baklava ($4.45). If you don’t like yours dripping with syrup so sweet you can barely taste the filo or the pistachios, then you’ve come to the right place. The strong Turkish tea, which comes in the cutest cup and saucer, is where the sugar belongs and it’s a perfect way to cap off the meal. Though, if you have that, you’ll skip having your Turkish coffee cup read by the joint’s owner, and you sure don’t want to miss that.

Unfortunately, they ran out of the daily special (usually priced at around $8) and a couple of other items the last time I was there, which initially got my goat. But on second thought, it just goes to show that the dishes are nice and fresh. The weaves and tapestry décor, complete with throw pillows in the window, is great, the atmosphere’s laid back and the service is friendly. You get this plus the tasty eats mentioned above, all for about $15 and change, and downtown no less.

Avesta
ADDRESS: 2077 Ste-Catherine W. (near Fort)
PHONE: 514-937-0156
HOURS: Everyday from about 10 a.m.–11 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: Fresh gözleme made right before your eyes,
delicious and affordable eats, friendly service, relaxed
atmosphere despite its downtown location.
ALCOHOL: No
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Small step on way in
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
PRICE: $15 per head before taxes & tip
RATING: *** out of ****