by MARK SLUTSKY

Despite what the name might make you think, Chez Bong isn’t an Amsterdam-style coffee shop or hemp-happy boutique. No, any cannabis associations are strictly unintentional—Chez Bong is in fact a newish Korean restaurant in the heart of Chinatown, with an impressive menu of hot delights. And while it’s all strictly legal, the food is spicy and flavourful enough to qualify as an intoxicant.

Situated just below the corner of St-Laurent and de la Gauchetière, Chez Bong is half a flight of stairs down from the street and despite its basement location is actually a bright and cheery enough place. That’s partially due to the restaurant’s light-coloured wood-panelled walls, which gives it an almost Alpine atmosphere, and otherwise thanks to the very sweet and friendly staff. If they like you enough they might even whip up some special off-menu dishes for you.

But even if they don’t, there’s plenty on Chez Bong’s menu to keep you occupied, as well as the tasty treats—kimchi, watercress, ginger—you’ll get on your table before you order. To start, if you have a high tolerance for oil, try the fried Korean dumplings ($5.99). Served in a basket of about a dozen, these handmade beauties may be greasy (enough for the paper underneath to go completely clear—that’s when you know it’s completely off the scale), but they’re delicious regardless, stuffed with pork and chives.

One of my personal favourite Korean dishes is the seafood omelette, and Chez Bong’s version ($12.99), while also a little bit on the oily side (though that’s somewhat to be expected with this dish), is definitely a winner. Large enough to serve as an appetizer for four or five people, the omelette is bright and colourful, thanks to the red peppers and green onions that help flavour the dish. The fluffy batter, and of course the tasty chopped octopus inside, both add to its well-rounded taste, and its texture, crispy on the outside and soft and airy on the interior, is lovely.

If you’re thirsting for some spicy soup there’s plenty on the menu, ranging from kimchi soup to beef stew to Korean won ton. I personally enjoyed the beef stew ($13.99) a great deal—the meat was soft and delicate and the broth spicy and gullet-warming. The zesty soup that accompanies most of the main courses is delicious as well, with a deep red hue and tender bits of pork bobbing in the broth (a bowl of steamed rice also comes with most of the soups and mains as well).

The Korean BBQ is not one to miss here, especially if you’re a fan of the stuff. The marinated beef BBQ ($10.99), cooked at the table, was a tender, deeply savoury delight. Every bite of the juicy meat was like a great little explosion of flavour; whatever the secret sauce they’re marinating the beef in is, it’s a potent one. The BBQ chicken ($9.99), served sizzling on a skillet, was also addictively tasty, with a subtler, but still present fieriness than the restaurant’s other dishes. Suffice to say the meat was cooked just right, perfectly juicy and tender. I’d almost warn against sharing this one, as you’ll want it all for yourself, it’s that good. Beef ribs (which I intend to go back to try sometime soon), pork, and shrimp compose the other BBQ options.

Other mains worth recommending would have to include the kimchi and pork stir fry with fresh tofu ($12.99). This is a big dish of finely-sliced pork and beautifully hot kimchi, the classic Korean pickled cabbage dish, which they really have down to an art here. If you’re a fan of tentacles with your food, try the octopus stir fry ($15.99). Although I found the octopus a little on the chewy side (to the point of toughness), it’s a yummy dish nonetheless.

TIPS? QUESTIONS? COMPLIMENTS TO THE CHEF? E-mail eattothebeat@gmail.com

Chez Bong
ADDRESS: 1021 St-Laurent (just below de la Gauchetière)
PHONE: 396-7779
HOURS: 11 a.m.–9 p.m. (closed Mondays)
BEST FEATURES: The superlatively fluffy seafood
omelette or the deeply savoury BBQ dishes
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No (down half a flight of stairs)
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Slightly
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $8–$15 per person, before tax and tip
RATING: *** out of ****