by MATHILDE RABBAT

There’s a little Middle-Eastern resto on Dudemaine, tucked away between Bois-de-Boulogne and l’Acadie, whose proprietor has been host, waiter, chef and all-around manager for almost two decades now. Even the décor at Dima has staying power, it seems, with its Molly Ringwald pastel pinks and high-back, rounded chairs upholstered in a pattern that says ’80s all over it.

The menu, which also probably hasn’t wavered much in the restaurant’s history, is replete with Syrian, Lebanese and Armenian standards—a tasty case of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Dima has all the old reliables, such as grilled kebabs and tahina-based dips, done up right with that home-cooked feel that everyone loves so much.

Pomegranates have always intrigued me, so I pounced when I saw mouhammara on the menu. This entrée is offered as a full portion ($4.75) or as a half ($3.50). I chose the latter but, once done, wished I had ordered the biggy. That’s how good it is. This sweet and spicy spread, composed of breadcrumbs, pomegranate juice, olive oil and topped with crushed walnut, must be slathered on soft warm pita for maximum effect. Heavenly.

The kebab osmaleh ($11.50) also deserves an honourable mention. They may be fashioned from ground beef, but they’re not the kind of meatballs you’d find on top of spaghetti. These ones bathe in a creamy yogurt and sesame sauce dashed with crushed pine nuts, very reminiscent of a tahina mixture and quite delicious.

As for pita wraps, the usual suspects such as shawarmas, shish taouks, kebabs and falafels start at $3 and exceed no more than about $9. But why not get a jump on BBQ season by sampling the shish kebab terbiyeli ($17)? The filet mignon was perfectly tasty and tender—it must have something to do with its olive oil and hot red sauce coating. I also just couldn’t get enough of the pita wedges that both cap and act as a bed for the filet mignon, keeping it warm and toasty. These had also been brushed with the same spicy mixture and grilled atop the meat, allowing the bread to soak some of its juices. The filet mignon and neighbouring onion halves shared both skewers, complimenting each other nicely. So did the accompanying taboule, which on first glance appeared to be dry, but was actually crispy and tasty with its deep green parsley leaves, tomato cubes and thin slices of onion. A second—let’s call it “regular”—iceberg salad also graced the dish, but I would have gladly traded that one in for more taboule that managed to avoid the oily trap that many restos set for this type of salad.

Just when I thought I could eat no more, the smell of rose water wafted over and I got it into my head that I couldn’t leave the joint without some mehalabieh ($2.50) in my belly. This milky custard, served chilled in a little glass cup, would have been rather uneventful if it weren’t garnished with rose water, orange blossom syrup and crushed pistachios. All the pudding really does is provide a base for those other, more show-stopping ingredients. Once you eat past them though, you’re not left with a whole lot in the flavour department I’m afraid.

Dima may be a ways away from the centre of town, but it’s well worth a visit. It won’t break the bank, the atmosphere’s very laid back, the grub’s good, and, impressively, it all boils down to one man who works the phone, the grill and customers all at the same time, without ever breaking a sweat.

Dima
ADDRESS: 1575 Dudemaine
PHONE: 334-3876
HOURS: Tue–Sun. 11:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m. (closed Mondays)
BEST FEATURES: Mouth-watering mouhammara, grilled goods
and grilled pita wedges brushed with oil, sesame yogurt sauce,
good tabla tracks on the sound system, smoothly
run one-man operation.
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NON-SMOKING SECTION: The whole place
PRICE: Roughly $20 per person before tip
RATING: *** out of ****