by MATHILDE RABBAT

There was a time in the not so distant past when you couldn’t find an Indian restaurant on NDGs favourite resto strip, Monkland, but thankfully that isn’t the case any more. Monkland now hosts not one, but two such joints. Having already reviewed neighbouring Garam Massala [Dec. 2, 2004], it was time to check out the latest addition, Le Goût de l’Inde.

With such a wide variety of offerings and combos at this place, it would probably be easier to state what isn’t on the menu rather than the other way around. But before we get to those, let’s talk pre-meal, beginning with the crispy papadums with which I thoroughly relished scooping up the chopped cucumber, onion and tomato concoction that came with them. After polishing that off pretty quickly, a daal (lentil) soup ($2.25) seemed like a smashing idea, and indeed it was. Instead of that heavy, sloppy stuff you get at some Indian joints, this entrée had a nice broth you could just about see through. Served with a fresh coriander garnish and a floating lemon wedge buoy, it was light yet tasty without being overloaded with too many lentils.

Since I ate considerably more than my half of the soup, much to the displeasure of my dinner companion, we figured one hors d’oeuvre just wasn’t enough. Enter the mixed appetizer platter ($4.95) where you’ll find some onion bhajis, some veggie pakoras (deep-fried assorted vegetables battered in chickpea flour), a sheek kebab and a samosa pregnant with minced beef and peas. Save for the samosa, which I found a little uneventful, the rest hit the spot, especially when dunked in the two yummy sauces that came alongside—though, I must say, they did make rather strange bedfellows with the accompanying iceberg salad’s zesty Italian vinaigrette.

The pakoras also appear in the vegetarian combo for one ($14.50) along with some tarka daal, a saag aloo dish (spinach and potato stew), a choice of either naan bread or rice, and a dessert. With cumin and coriander overtones, the golden tarka daal was just a wee bit on the salty side, but otherwise a hit. The saag also struck my fancy with its flavourful spinach leaves, diced onion, big potato morsels and orange and green pepper chunks that were crunchy enough in texture to compliment that of the limp spinach. Whole cumin seeds spring up once in a while to remind you of the important role they play in the garam masala. Brushed with just the right amount of clarified butter, fluffy and moist, but well-grilled tandoori-style, the naan left a lasting impression.

Meat lovers not only have the option to choose between a selection of chicken, beef, lamb or shrimp, they can also decide how these should be prepared. Combine the lamb, for example, with the dansak prep ($10.50) and what you get are mostly tender and lean chunks of lamb bathing in a viscous, orange sauce spiked with pineapple and lemon juice—the most interesting part of this dish. As the menu had predicted, it is a sweet, sour and hot curry and was this baby ever hot, just the way I like it.

Sheer gluttony took over and I couldn’t leave the joint without having a mango lassi, one of the stand-up-straw thickest (in a good way) that I’ve ever had. The real deal. We’re talking whipped yogurt here. For dessert, I also thoroughly enjoyed the borfi (coconut square), as well as the gulab jaman (deep fried, Indian cheese ball, drizzled with honey and rose water). Both were fresh and delicious.

The grub’s yummy at this Indian joint and your dollar goes a long way. Other perks include fresh flowers at every table, pre-warmed ceramic plates and a hot-plate gizmo that keeps your curries warm thanks to a couple of boxed-in tea lights. And you just have to love a place that matches the hues of its walls to the spicy colours of the dishes it serves.

Le Goût de l’Inde
ADDRESS: 6127 Monkland.
PHONE: 486-4545
HOURS: Mon–Sat 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; every day 5–10 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: Light & tasty daal soup, great naan, thicker than thick mango lassi, nice atmosphere, huge selection of affordable dishes, they do take-out.
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NON-SMOKING SECTION: Sort of
PRICE: $20 per head, everything included
RATING: *** out of ****