MUSH MUSH, WOOF WOOF

How to discover Quebec’s frozen beauty from the back of a dog sled

by CHRIS BARRY

Come January, it’s hard not to wonder what those kooky Jesuits were thinking way back in the 17th-century when they decided this was as good a place as any to establish a settlement. Oh right, I nearly forgot, most of ’em were shooting for martyrdom and decided that perishing from exposure to the brutal Quebec elements fit the bill as well as anything.

But in spite of all the inevitable freezing involved, the idea of getting behind a pack of fiery pooches and sledding out into the wilds for a couple of days admittedly holds a certain bizarre appeal. One of the bigger dog sledding outfits in these parts is Globe-Trotter Aventure Canada tours, whose spokesperson, Charles Masson, says that the bulk of dog sledding adventurers they cater to are Europeans, “although obviously, we service Quebecers as well.”

Better in the bush

Masson confirms there are few better ways to experience the winter wonderland that is la Belle Province than from the back of a dog sled.

“There is spectacular beauty, and all kinds of wildlife to observe, which you appreciate differently when you’re out in the bush like this,” he says. And as far as the cold is concerned, Masson states bluntly, “Just dress appropriately. We sometimes get people arriving at our winter base camp in running shoes and jeans, but our guides aren’t going to let them head out like that. So we provide snowmobile suits to them before departing.”

Although Masson’s outfit offers shorter one- and two-day tours in nearby de la Lanaudière, he says their most popular adventure is a seven-day excursion through the Saguenay region—which sounds, to some of us less outdoorsy types, like it could be, perhaps, just a little too much adventure for comfort.

Masson disagrees. “Our tours are intended for everybody. You don’t have to be an athlete or an extreme sport enthusiast to do this.” And the faint of heart can always take small solace in the knowledge that, come the end of the day, the isolated backwoods cabin they’ll be eating and sleeping in is always toasty warm.

What about the hounds?

Okay, that’s all fine and dandy, but what about the hounds, the animal rights guy in me wonders? Don’t you sort of have to whip these poor canines to get ’em moving?

“Of course not,” Masson responds, as though I truly am the idiot my parents always told me I was. “The mushers we work with all adore their animals. And you’d never whip these dogs anyway because they love running so much. I mean, these sleds can go as fast as 40 kilometres an hour, depending on the snow conditions.

“No, these are very happy dogs—mostly huskies and various mixed breeds. And why wouldn’t they be happy? They spend their lives running through the snow, their very favourite thing to do in life. That and being pet.”

Next stop, the tundra

If you’re thinking this whole dog sledding business is just the thing to fry your burger then I strongly suggest you do a little comparative shopping before heading out to the tundra. There’s no shortage of operators within striking distance of Montreal and prices vary considerably, ranging from $98 for an afternoon of sledding through the wilderness with survivalist Pierre Bertolissi, www.aventurenature.com, to a whopping $1800 for the above mentioned mega-excursion through the Saguenay with Globe-Trotter Aventure Canada tours. Another company, www.bonrepos.qc.ca, offers a two-day excursion complete with meals for $255.

For more info on Globe-Trotter Aventure Canada Tours, visit www.aventurecanada.com or call 1-888-598-7688. For a thorough list of dog sled operators in Quebec, go to www.bonjourquebec.com