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Jerk appeal >> Blue Mountain does Jamaican right |
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by MARK SLUTSKY Blue Mountain may be the only Jamaican restaurant in Montreal with a large, elaborate wedding cake in the front window. It's certainly the best Jamaican restaurant in Montreal with a wedding cake in the front window, and it's definitely one of the best spots for jerk chicken or curry, period. At first I'd guessed that the restaurant was situated in an old bakery, but as it turned out, the space used to belong to a pizzeria, which would explain the red-painted trim. The place doubles as a catering outfit, though, and the cake serves to advertise that they do weddings, if you're interested. The space is, as befits a former pizza parlour, not particularly distinguished, though they've brightened it up with a homey touch or two. And I especially liked the bold use of the Futura font on the illuminated menu that hangs above the counter - gives the place a nice '50s touch, even if the restaurant is only under a year old. The sign outside bills Blue Mountain as a "Jamaican and Canadian food" restaurant, using the curious terminology more frequently associated with "Chinese and Canadian" joints. What this basically means is that they serve hamburgers, tuna sandwiches, chicken wings and hot dogs in addition to the jerks, rotis and curries. But it was the latter foodstuffs that brought me out there on a recent evening. Having heard some hullabaloo about Blue Mountain's jerk chicken, I didn't hesitate in ordering a plate ($9.20 for the small, $11.50 for the large). I went for the bigger option, which basically consisted of half a chicken, plus an option of rice, rice and peas, or "hard food" (plantain). The chicken was delicious, deep-black but not at all charred, and when you cut through the flesh, dark orange juices seeped out. Certainly one of the best jerks in town. Less impressive were the rice and peas, which, though plentiful, were rather plain. I did like the assortment of steamed veggies - carrots, green beans etc. - that came with the plate. Also crazily yummy was the goat curry ($10.30 small, $13 large). The meat was beautifully tender and the gravy just sweet enough - a rich, filling meal. The chicken curry ($9.20 small, $11.50) didn't fare quite as well in our assessment. My friend thought it was a little too dry, and although I didn't totally agree, I did think the portion was far too boney, with too much gristle and not enough meat. There's fish both fried and steamed on the menu ($11 small, $13 large), and my companion went for the steamed option - an impressive serving of red snapper in its entirety, head and all. The fish was very fresh and had a delicate flavouring; it was soft and tender and perfectly cooked. I'd advise sticking around for the dessert. While you can't get wedding cake, unfortunately, there are a variety of other homemade goodies on offer, though the exact menu seems to vary night to night. I liked the cheesecake ($3), but the black cake ($4.50) was what really caught my fancy. A close relative of the fruitcake made with copious amounts of rum, it was far tastier than I imagined, not being a huge fruitcake fan myself (although you can get a slice of the stuff for $3). There's also a wide variety of homemade drinks and juices, running between $1–$5: mango, sorrel, carrot and a ginger beer that's a tad on the sweet side. They also open early for breakfast daily (usually around 8:30). As with the rest of the menu, the options are either "Canadian" (eggs, pancakes) or Caribbean (salt fish, callaloo, dumplings). Blue Mountain is a charming and informal little place with genuinely friendly service and stomach-warming, homey food. If you're looking for some Caribbean flavour, I'd definitely recommend a visit. Tips? Questions? Compliments to the chef? Email eattothebeat@gmail.com Blue Mountain |
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