by MATHILDE RABBAT

Once in a while, immigration laws shift and the powers that be decide to favour expatriates from given country over another. When I was a wee lass, for example, this country opened its borders to immigrants from Iran. I know this because many of the newcomers settled in my neck of the woods, prompting kids in the 'hood to refer to a particular bus stop as "the Iranian bus stop." Now, we get to sample the best treats the Persian culture has to offer, like those at Brochetterie Persepolis, located on Sherbrooke in the heart of NDG.

Literally meaning "City of the Persians," the restaurant draws its name from an ancient city located in southern Iran, which was eventually pillaged and burned by Alexander the Great. Though the name evokes a grand sense of history, just five choices can be found on the menu at this endearing little place. All are kebob dishes - two with filet mignon (either in strips or cubes), one with minced beef and two with chicken (thigh or breast). To make things even easier, appetizers and side dishes are also predetermined. The most daunting question you'll have to ask yourself is, "Do I have a soup or a salad as an entrée?" All prices cover your appetizers and your tea, as well as the main selection. You won't even have to rack your brains over calculating taxes since they've already figured it out for you on the menu.

A basket of fresh pita wedges is de rigueur at each table, along with a delightful Persian tea, which can best be described as a black tea infusion with a hint of cardamom. It's nice to be offered such a cupper before and after the feast. And you won't be disappointed with either the soup or the salad. The former, which is lentil-based, along with small bits of carrot, onion, celery and tomato, is rich, thick and very flavourful. As to the latter, crisp iceberg lettuce forms the base for a few cucumber slices with skin, a large slice of ripe tomato and a drizzle of a very nice mayo-andvinegar dressing sprinkled with a touch of oregano. Also of note is a potato, egg, chicken, green pea, carrot, mayo and pickle purée to be slathered on the pita - kind of like a mashed potato salad, where you can't see the potpourri of ingredients, but can taste them.

The main dish will dazzle you, at least when it comes to presentation - though again, the simple strategy ensures that nothing is unnecessarily over done. An unmarinated, grilled tomato stands guard at the helm of your oval dish before it gets speared by a fork, only to spill its juices over a large collection of grains. The kabob of your choosing lies strewn aside this long, oval mound of white basmati rice crowned by a strip of vibrantly hued yellow and orange grains. The kabob koubideh ($10) is composed of ground beef and a considerable amount of minced onion, along with salt, black pepper, turmeric and sumac, and perhaps a hint of lime or lemon juice. Of these ingredients, what stood out the most, perhaps a little too much, is definitely the onion. The more you chew, the more the taste intensifies, eventually overpowering the other ingredients. The same goes for the kabob chenjeh ($13), where garlic is the culprit. That said, the flame-broiled cubes of tender lamb were tasty, thanks to a salty, dark marinade brushed over top - something like the Persian version of soya sauce.

Who knows - maybe one day this Iranian-heavy part of NDG will see a few new Eastern European eateries springing up, as the aforementioned bus stop is now known as the "Russian" one.

Brochetterie Persepolis
ADDRESS: 5700 Sherbrooke W.
PHONE: 807-8747
HOURS: Every day except Monday from noon–9 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: Reasonable prices, soothing Iranian tea with
yummy cardamom, tender lamb, friendly service
with atmosphere to boot.
ALCOHOL: No
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: No
CREDIT CARDS: Cash only
NON-SMOKING SECTION: yes
PRICE: $10–$15 a head for everything but the tip
RATING: *** out of ****