by MARK SLUTSKY

The snow came down in handfuls and cars jackknifed to the left and right of us as we drove east on unplowed streets. It was a sweet relief to finally make it to the welcoming surroundings of Le Coin du Mexique after the trudge through a winter storm. And what better food to consume in the heart of a Montreal winter than the most authentically Mexican food I've yet to taste in this city. No mistake about it, Le Coin du Mexique is the real deal.

Warm and cozy, with pumpkin-coloured walls, the restaurant is located a few steps down from street level on the eastern stretch of Jean-Talon. On a recent visit, we arrived to find a friend already there. She'd been waiting for a while, our arrival times somewhat messed up by the vagaries of the weather, and was already digging into a tasty, spicy chicken tamale (a steal at $2.50). The rich corn flavour and the sharp hotness of the dish makes it the kind of food you have no choice but to dedicate your whole attention to, as I discovered when I ordered one later for myself.

We set about ordering some other appetizers for ourselves. As soon as they arrived, I felt myself growing to love this little restaurant. The tortilla soup ($3.99) immediately knocked our socks off: a deep, rich broth full of triangular tortillas that somehow managed to remain crunchy even when fully submerged, a pat of cream and a sprinkling of cheese added up to the best bowl of soup I've had in a while. It tasted like home cooking, and was perhaps only slightly bested by the sopes ($6.99), which were also mind-blowers. Five thick, rounded tortillas with slightly raised edges were garnished with refried beans, cream and cheese to create bite-sized delights. A definite must-order. The chicken tostada ($3.49), though it didn't quite inspire the rapture of the other appetizers, was also very tasty, a fried tortilla topped with lettuce, sour cream and chicken (beef is also an option).

Get to Le Coin between 3–8 p.m. and you can take advantage of their very sensibly priced tables d'hôtes. With a choice of a trio of either the chicken tacos or the three varieties of enchiladas, or the tampiqueña steak, the price ($8.99 to $15.99 for the steak) also includes either chicken or tortilla soup. It's a good deal.

However, only one of us had arrived early enough to take advantage of the special, so we ordered à la carte. We got the enchiladas rojas ($7.25 for four - mind, that's one less than what comes with the table d'hôte), the mole enchiladas ($9.50), the chilaquiles rojos ($11.99), the chicken tacos ($6.99), and the pork tacos ($6.99).

The enchiladas were delightful. Both versions were stuffed with chicken, the rojas covered in a red salsa and the mole enchiladas, covered, of course, in spicy chocolate mole sauce. "It's like candy!" said one of my companions, approvingly, of the latter. The red ones were lighter tasting but no less tasty.

The pork tacos were a semi-sweet treat too. Dark burgundy-red, the marinated pork was topped with chunks of uncooked pineapple, which, all mixed together with fresh lime juice, onions and salsa verde, made for a heady combination - a really unusual taste and a wonderful marriage of savoury and sweet, that irresistible partnership. They were soft-shelled, while the chicken tacos occupied the opposite end of the taco spectrum, rolled-up and deep-fried. Also very tasty, these, though the chicken inside was a little dry and required some intense salsification to get up to speed. The chilaquiles were another uncommon dish and another sign this place was the real deal, consisting of super-thin grilled steaks served with refried beans and nachos cooked in a red sauce (like tortilla soup without the soup, my friend commented). They made for a hearty dish, with, like everything else here, a homey and comforting taste.

Le Coin du Mexique
ADDRESS: 2489 Jean-Talon E. (right across from Iberville metro)
PHONE: 374-7448
HOURS: Tue–Wed 11:30 a.m–9 p.m., Thu-Fri 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.,
Sat noon–10 p.m., Sun noon-9 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: The savoury, bite-size sopes
or the marinated pork tacos
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Half a flight of stairs down
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Not wildly, but you can work it
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $7–$15 per person, before tax, booze or tip
RATING: *** out of ****