by MATHILDE RABBAT

Simon and Garfunkel have made sure we’re all familiar with parsley, sage, rosemary and time, but what of anis, cinnamon, bay leaves and clove, cardamom, coriander, cumin and curcuma? At Garam Massala, all these spices are artfully fused together to produce a menu that covers the Indian subcontinent, from the peaks of the Himalayas to the plains and shores of India’s southernmost point.

While most Indian joints gravitate toward one particular region of the country, this place, located in the Monkland village, plucks treasures from hither and thither. Like pieces of art in a little glass gallery, an array of spices is prominently displayed in a showcase that flanks the foyer, providing a savoury glimpse into the tastes that will find their way into your meal. These spices make up the hot mixture known as garam massala, and according to the menu, there are as many combos as there are chefs.

Before you nosh on your order, you get to nibble on thin and crispy pappadums brushed with ghee, made even yummier when used to scoop up diced pickled carrots sprinkled with black sesame. The mango lassi (Indian version of a milkshake) ($3.50) at this place is also to die for. It’s the product of a foamy union of homemade yogurt and mango juice, served lukewarm over ice and best enjoyed sipped through a straw. As for appetizers, the sheek kebab will not disappoint. This entrée is composed of two spicy, skewered kebabs of minced beef with cumin overtones that you can dunk in a fruity, yogurt-based dipping sauce. You just can’t go wrong for under $4.

The sag paneer ($8) is ultra-delicious with its melt-in-your-mouth, tasty spinach cooked with onion and combined with chunks of soft homemade cheese. The occasional large piece of green pepper also puts in an appearance. The colour of the tikka massala lamb ($12) has inspired me to believe that “tandoori orange” should have a permanent home in the Crayola collection. Extra large chunks of tender lamb, bathed in a thick and vibrant tandoori orange sauce, houses small strips of onion, a mild dose of cumin, omnipresent coriander and a slew of other spices, or garam massala as it were. The hot and sour shrimp phatia ($12.95) reflects Persian influences on Indian cooking. The tangy curry tomato sauce, spiced with ginger, awakens the taste buds and is so delicious that it overshadows the flavour of the mid-sized shrimp.

Need a little something to help cool the palate? Try the cucumber raita ($2.25), thick homemade yogurt with small cucumber strips and a drizzle of anis seeds. Since fat equals taste, this dip is totally delectable and helps manage the more spicy numbers. In addition to a cooling agent, you’re going to need something to help you slop up all that spicy sauce. Enter rice and chapatti. The Kashmiri rice ($8) piqued my curiosity. This concoction is anything but plain: basmati rice cooked with fried onions and jam-packed with a variety of dried fruits. Robust grains accompanied by small green peas, peanuts, bits of candied fruit and pineapple, light and dark raisins, dried apricot and even dried banana help create an interesting, though light, pot-pourri of flavour. As to the bread, try the wholewheat chapatti ($1.75), a thin patty baked on a griddle—very nice. Both the rice and the chapatti are kept warm in their own stainless steel receptacles. Other nice touches include serving bottled water instead of tap and the warming of plates before the meal is served.

Accommodating service, Indian tracks flowing from the kitchen, little oil lamps, dark wood trims, carpeted flooring, dim lighting and warm colours along with understated Indic motifs on fabrics and sparse knick-knacks, all create a tasteful atmosphere in which to savour a variety of treats from all over the subcontinent.

Garam Massala
ADDRESS: 5601 Monkland
PHONE: 488-8999
HOURS: Lunch: Mon–Sat 11:45 a.m.–2 p.m. Dinner: Mon–Wed &
Sun 5–10 p.m., Thurs 5–10:30 p.m., Fri–Sat 5–11 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: Great variety of excellent and reasonably
priced pan-Indian dishes
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NON-SMOKING SECTION: Technically, but not really
PRICE: $20 before drinks & tip
RATING: *** out of ****