by MARK SLUTSKY

Though there may be a relative lack of restaurants serving traditional Mexican food in our city, there are many rewards for those who set their sights further south on the globe. Montreal is blessed with a number of quality Chilean eateries, and we may be, in fact, quite ahead of the times in the way we've embraced the mighty empanada. Looks like the yumminess-filled pockets of dough are about to hit the big time; Taco Bell has even added them to their menu! Not that there are any Taco Bells in the 514, but all the better, really, as the local options are all so good. Among the most venerable of local empanada vendors is Barros Luco, which has been in business for almost 20 years now in its unassuming Mile-End location.

Named after a former Chilean president who reputedly had quite an appetite for the steak sandwiches that were eventually named after him, Barros Luco is a large place, minimally decorated and set up in a cafeteria style, where you place your order at the counter and choose a table. In the summer there's a nice terrasse outside, and the restaurant's interior duplicates the look of the patio somewhat with fake plants hanging from the ceiling. The look is basic and no-nonsense, but not sterile.

As for the food, I won't keep you in suspense - let's get to the empanadas first. The little guys retail for a very low $2.50 a piece, and you can cobble together a meal out of a few of them. Barros Luco offers a few different varieties: beef, chicken, spinach, cheese and vegetable. The beef is the classic, full of slightly sweet chopped meat and onion, as well as a slice of hard-boiled egg and a black olive. It's very tasty, as is the vegetable, full of a mixture of veggies - carrots, onions, cabbage and the like. What's most notable about Barros Luco's empanada is the breadstuff, which is uncommonly thin, setting it apart from La Chilenita's somewhat doughier version (not that I don't enjoy La Chilenita's variation, I just prefer Barros's slightly).

Of course, there's a lot more you can order here, and the most obvious empanada alternative is the Barros Lucos sandwich ($4.25). Prepared on a small, flattened bun, the restaurant's eponymous sandwich is made with very thin fried steak, cheese, avocado and tomatoes, and offers a satisfaction similar to a small diner burger. The restaurant serves a bunch of similar sandwiches: the barros jarpa (made with ham), the churrasco (just steak), the diputado (steak and fried eggs), and the comito (fried pork). All are $4.25.

If the Barros Luco is the hamburger, then the completo ($2.30) is the hot dog. Actually, it literally is the hot dog. But it's a frankfurter served up Chilean-style, and that means a liberal topping of chopped tomatoes, guacamole and mayonnaise. And when I say liberal, I mean it - the condiments contain at least as much mass as the hot dog itself. It can be a little tricky to eat, but the rewards are great.

If this all sounds like a lot of beef and pork (and it is), those more inclined to the fruits of the sea should give the pescado frito ($8.60) a try. With a very tasty avocado salad as the preamble, the breaded white fish filet is crispy and tasty, a little humble, but a very satisfying and comforting meal nonetheless. Rice is served on the side.

Baked goods and desserts are also available for those with a sweet tooth; I like the cuchufli ($1.75 for a bag of four, $3 for two bags), which are cigar-shaped tubes of crispy pastry full of a caramel filling. Chilean jams and other typical products are also on sale, for ex-pats and the curious.

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Barros Luco
ADDRESS: 5201 St-Urbain (corner Fairmount)
PHONE: 270-7369
HOURS: Mon-Wed 9 a.m.-7 p.m.; Thu-Fri 9 a.m-9 p.m. (though
they sometimes close early); Sat-Sun 9 a.m.-6 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: Amazingly inexpensive and filling
Chilean food, and of course the empanadas
ALCOHOL: Beer in bottles
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $2.50-$10 per person, before tax or tip
RATING: *** out of ****