by MATHILDE RABBAT

You know when you first hear a word you've never heard before and it keeps popping up over and over again from that time onwards? I experienced something of the sort when a resto with an oddly catchy name, "Nostos," kept creeping up in conversations over the past weeks. Apparently the place is loved in some circles for its heaping helpings of Greek grub. So, with all the talk, my curious taste buds led me to a part of town I don't venture to very often, a strip mall on L'Acadie's busy thoroughfare.

No-nonsense best describes the menu at Nostos, and give-me-your-order-and-don't-ask-too-many-questions gives you some indication of the service - at least when it's a busy night. In other words, this place runs on the keep-it-simple strategy by serving up authentic Greek, just like Mom used to make it.

You'd be well advised to start your meal off with some warm garlic bread, just as good as it sounds. Then, the pikilia platter (under $11) ensures that you'll sample lots of appetizers, which can also be ordered separately. It's composed of mini mounds of tasty tzaziki, feta sprinkled with oregano, and those isosceles triangles of spanakopita (filo dough stuffed with spinach) and tyropita (filo stuffed with cheese). More decorative elements making up the large platter include cucumber sliced into half moon shapes, tomato wedges, black olives and yellow peppers to give your taste buds a little kick.

The taramosalata, also featured in this appetizer (or meze), is typically made with fish roe, olive oil, lemon juice and moistened breadcrumbs or mashed potatoes. The paste stood out amongst its neighbours on the platter, not for its taste, but for its bright pinkish colour and shiny, gelatinous consistency - a treat to some, but not my personal fave. The dolmadakia, on the other hand, is scrumptious, consisting of tender, stuffed grape leaves soaked in olive oil.

As this is no nouvelle cuisine, your main course will be very filling so save some room for that - though there's always the doggie bag option. If you're partial to poultry, the Nostos Special is a good bet at $7.95 for a grilled half chicken and $14.95 for a whole one. The grill gives the meat that smoky barbecue flavour that we all love and, thankfully, the dish isn't drowning in unnecessary seasoning, only oil and very basic spices.

Veggie, pork and chicken souvlakis, in stick or pita form, are affordably priced between $3.50 and $4.50, or hover around the $10 mark for the platters, which also include fries, rice and Greek salad. The breaded and fried golden calamari main dish (13.75$) passes the test when it comes to texture and, like the chicken, is unseasoned except for a dash of salt - nothing too fancy. The garlicky Greek sausages called loukaniko ($12.75) were a little on the dry side, but tasty still.

As for the feng shui of the place, Nostros has maximized their space by incorporating an open, well-ventilated kitchen into the chow area and tried to inject a measure of atmosphere through the addition of stucco walls, Mediterranean-blue table cloths, tiled ceramic flooring and laminated pictures of sunny Greece. These seek to detract attention from other elements that betray the suburban strip-mall setting. But, how do you get around the commercial ceiling with its rectangular corkboard panels? Paint it pale blue, of course. Neons have also been replaced with more discreet spots, just bright enough to make the taramosalata glisten.

If innovative cuisine or new variations on old standards isn't your cup of tea, and you prize the home cooked feel with reasonably priced hearty portions, bring your appetite here.

Nostos
ADDRESS: 9530 L'Acadie
PHONE: 388-1981
HOURS: Mon–Thurs 11 a.m.–9 p.m.; Fri–Sat
11 a.m.–10 p.m.; Sun 5–9 p.m.
BEST FEATURES: Affordability and simplicity of dishes,
big portions, soft and warm garlic bread, yummy
dolmadakia, sipping house wine out of mini glasses.
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NON-SMOKING SECTION: Yes
PRICE: $20–$25 per head, everything included
RATING: **1/2 out of ****