by MARK SLUTSKY

Precursors to the Incas, the Moche civilization flourished in northern Peru for about eight centuries, beginning around 100 AD; they built huge mud-brick pyramids, produced much beautiful art and dabbled in a little human sacrifice on the side. Not much was known about them until architectural discoveries in the late '80s shed light on the civilization's inner workings. And now there's a restaurant themed after them! A quite good one, as it turns out, though a little on the expensive side. Mochica, on the busy strip of St-Denis above Roy, is a gorgeously designed place, with a menu composed of haute variations on Peruvian cuisine, using many ingredients specifically imported from Peru.

At first glance, Mochica looks as much like a museum as a restaurant. Reproductions of Mochican art hang behind glass panels and smaller glass panels on the floor reveal little enclosures with more reproductions. Dark wood and art gallery-style lighting complete the look of the place, overall stylish and impressive.

The menu is no less attention-getting, with dishes containing uncommon ingredients like veal hearts, llama meat and various other delicacies. Worth checking out on the appetizer side is the papa à la hauncaína ($6), a dish of boiled, halved Peruvian potatoes covered in a sauce made from Montecoso cheese, and ají, a popular Peruvian pepper that finds its way into quite a few dishes. The sauce, cheesy and creamy, had just the faintest tang of peppery spiciness to it. The pulpo al olivo negro ($12) was also a real pleasure - grilled octopus served with a kalamata olive and cognac pesto sauce. I couldn't quite taste the cognac, but the olives gave the sauce a subtle but very identifiable flavour that meshed very well with the fresh-tasting octopus. Fans of ceviche, that South American dish consisting of raw fish marinated in citrus juice, will definitely enjoy Mochica's ceviche mixto ($12), an exquisite take on the dish. The delicate, tangy pieces of fish are served out of the marinade - they appear almost like sashimi. And for the braver of heart, the anticucho de corazon ($9) is a pair of grilled veal heart kebabs, which have a great, distinctive, earthy taste.

Perhaps the most interesting main course, to me at least, was the llama de los Andes ($30), which was exactly what it sounds like - llama steaks! And organic ones, no less. The meat was a little tough, but the flavour, infused with lemon, was delicious, a light meat somewhere between lamb and beef. This is a pricey dish, but worth checking out if budget permits.

The inchik-api ($16) is an unusual dish: quail (and a great deal of it) served in a peanut sauce. This was a bit of a weird one, with the birds really drenched in the sauce - maybe they overdid it a little bit, as the dressing overwhelmed the quails' natural flavour somewhat. A better fowl choice is the ají de gallina. Shredded chicken in a creamy stew flavoured with the above-mentioned Peruvian pepper, it had a rich, homey taste to it. Again, as with the potato appetizer, there was just enough of the ají's spiciness to be noticeable, without making it a scorcher. (Though, if you like the stuff, a corner of each plate was drizzled with a more concentrated ají sauce - the waitress warned us it would be incredibly hot, but it was just very spicy, nothing supernatural.)

Mochico offers a catch of the day ($24), and when we visited it happened to be a very delectable swordfish. This dish is always served with a seafood sauce, regardless of what fish is featured, and it worked beautifully with the meaty swordfish. The sauce was thick, almost like a gravy, and bits of squid and various other fruits of the sea could be discerned in it.

Mochico may not be the cheapest place in town, but as a dining experience it's certainly unique and worth a special visit. Plus, it's educational!

Comments? Complaints? Commendations? Contact me at eattothebeat@gmail.com

Mochica
ADDRESS: 3863 St-Denis (between Roy and Duluth)
PHONE: 284-4448
HOURS: Mon–Sat 5–11 p.m.; closed Sundays
BEST FEATURES: The exquisite, museum-like décor, delicious
Peruvian food made with imported ingredients
ALCOHOL: Yes
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
VEGETARIAN FRIENDLY: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes (it's all non-smoking except for the terrasse out back)
PRICE: $15–$40 per person, before tax, tip or wine
RATING: *** out of ****